ct20 on a 3l

Post by **93lux** » Sun Dec 03, 2006 7:41 pm

high n mighty,

Mate!~ The problems you are having are the EXACT same problems I had.

Here goes,

For the water problem I bought the steel heater pipes from the wreckers off a 2LT-E. Then also bought the thermostat housing aswell. Plumbed one pipe from the heater pipes to the turbo water pipes and the other to the thermostat housing

turbo housing,

I used a 2'' piece of exhaust pipe from the turbo across the tappett cover joined by a piece of silicone hose. It's a snug fit but hasn't failed yet. I also had to leave the top tappett cover off so it could fit.

Turbo oil feed,

I bought the banjo bolt and union fitting that feeds the vac pump on the back of the alternator and put it in the oil gallery next to the vac feed. There is a blanking plug there already just remove it and fit the union fitting. Then I got a braided hose made up from pirteck to connect the turbo.

I also blanked that hole off on the back of the exhaust manifold. it is only for egr.

Let us know how you go.

Post by **RUFF** » Sun Dec 03, 2006 8:15 pm

HnM i just emailed you some pics of the set up on the 2.8Turbo hilux i just bought.

Post by **high n mighty** » Mon Dec 04, 2006 12:23 am

93lux wrote:high n mighty,

Mate!~ The problems you are having are the EXACT same problems I had.

Here goes,

For the water problem I bought the steel heater pipes from the wreckers off a 2LT-E. Then also bought the thermostat housing aswell. Plumbed one pipe from the heater pipes to the turbo water pipes and the other to the thermostat housing

turbo housing,

I used a 2'' piece of exhaust pipe from the turbo across the tappett cover joined by a piece of silicone hose. It's a snug fit but hasn't failed yet. I also had to leave the top tappett cover off so it could fit.

Turbo oil feed,

I bought the banjo bolt and union fitting that feeds the vac pump on the back of the alternator and put it in the oil gallery next to the vac feed. There is a blanking plug there already just remove it and fit the union fitting. Then I got a braided hose made up from pirteck to connect the turbo.

I also blanked that hole off on the back of the exhaust manifold. it is only for egr.

Let us know how you go.

Cheers for the info.

I have brazed brass fittings into my heater hoses, though I will need a join between pipes to gaurantee constant flow, plus some kind of one way valve to stop the heater running when not on. Or does all this work for you without mods?? I will look at ruffs pics though...

I cut the rear of my exhaust off which ended up being the perfect angle for the induction. The only problem being that it sits firmly on the rocker cover.

I don' think this would pass engineering and I am not impressed either.

Thanks for sending email Ruff, I will check it now

Post by **high n mighty** » Mon Dec 04, 2006 12:40 am

Tony.

Mine is now brazed directly into the steel heater hoses, it looks like yours is set-up the same way but with tee's.

My concern is that the heater control may leak with pressure from behind once they are connected,. I know it's not a huge thing but I would rather fix it before I boil because it's leaking. Is it heating your new lux up with this set-up or do I need a one way valve and tee?

Your induction pipe seems to sit almost or equally as tight as mine(std 2" exhaust pipe that won't budge from the rocker cover).

I have tried removing the collar from the exhaust side of the turbo, it won't move once it is off. Apart from the flange type, this is my last hurdle.

Cheers for the email and info ppl, keep it coming

Post by **RUFF** » Mon Dec 04, 2006 9:23 am

If you have the 2 fittings in the steel pipes that run above the manifold there will be no problems. The water will constantly flow through the Turbo. You wont have over heating issues. Heater on or off. LPG systems have the heater hoses plumbed exactly the same way with no problems.

Post by **Gribble** » Mon Dec 04, 2006 9:52 am

RUFF wrote:If you have the 2 fittings in the steel pipes that run above the manifold there will be no problems. The water will constantly flow through the Turbo. You wont have over heating issues. Heater on or off. LPG systems have the heater hoses plumbed exactly the same way with no problems.

Excactly, dont tap it in after the heater valve and you will be fine.

Post by **high n mighty** » Mon Dec 04, 2006 11:20 am

Gribble wrote:
RUFF wrote:If you have the 2 fittings in the steel pipes that run above the manifold there will be no problems. The water will constantly flow through the Turbo. You wont have over heating issues. Heater on or off. LPG systems have the heater hoses plumbed exactly the same way with no problems.
Excactly, dont tap it in after the heater valve and you will be fine.

Beauty

Now I just gotta work out how to twist the nozzle, the outside clamp isn't all that hold it in position and I don't know what else holds it.

Post by **RUFF** » Mon Dec 04, 2006 11:38 am

Are you trying to Twist the Compressor Housing?

Post by **high n mighty** » Mon Dec 04, 2006 6:15 pm

RUFF wrote:Are you trying to Twist the Compressor Housing?

Yes I am, I removed the collar and it wouldn't budge.

Thanks for the help so far guys

Post by **RUFF** » Mon Dec 04, 2006 6:37 pm

If your running the same CT20 i am then you dont need to do this. You do need to remove the sound deadener of the top of the tappet cover though.

Post by **93lux** » Mon Dec 04, 2006 7:32 pm

there is a roll pin on the compressor housing preventing it from turning. You will see it better when you remove the circlip. What are you going to do about the waste gate acuator arm

Post by **high n mighty** » Mon Dec 04, 2006 10:19 pm

RUFF wrote:If your running the same CT20 i am then you dont need to do this. You do need to remove the sound deadener of the top of the tappet cover though.

This would solve the problem but considering it is currently unrego'ed and I have the time (2 weeks, lol) I would like to make everything look smick.

I will definately use this option if I can't solve it though Tony

Post by **high n mighty** » Mon Dec 04, 2006 10:26 pm

93lux wrote:there is a roll pin on the compressor housing preventing it from turning. You will see it better when you remove the circlip. What are you going to do about the waste gate acuator arm

I have seen the circlip and imagine I need to remove the collar again. I really only need to twist the turbo 5-10 degrees to get it where I want it to sit comfortably. Does this mean the pin has no-where else to go?? I don't want the housing to be floating but would like to move it that little bit to make the fitment look proffessional.

Can anyone provide me with info on the flange??

Sorry to be a pita but if I have the outers knowledge network at hand I would be mad not to use it, I'm not trying to finish it in one day

Post by **high n mighty** » Tue Dec 05, 2006 5:29 pm

RUFF wrote:If your running the same CT20 i am then you dont need to do this. You do need to remove the sound deadener of the top of the tappet cover though.

Thanks for that, I couldn't twist the turbo as the circlip is pretty heavy duty so I pulled the deadener off and cleaned the tappet cover up(had mud all through it and was rusting).

The pipe from the turbo to the inlet fits rather well so now I just have to work out how to plumb the filter side.

Trying to do this semi cheap as I want some stainless pipes made up (polished or painted) so the pipes don't rust later on.

Cheers for the contiuning advice.

Now the only hurdle is finding what sort of flange it is on the back of the turbo(think I will remove the rear housing tomorrow) and glue the zorst back up. Plus I have to put the radiator, airconditioning, alternator and belts back on with no diagram(removed it all a few months ago when we did the rings and bearings)

Post by **RUFF** » Tue Dec 05, 2006 5:59 pm

high n mighty wrote:Now the only hurdle is finding what sort of flange it is on the back of the turbo(think I will remove the rear housing tomorrow) and glue the zorst back up. Plus I have to put the radiator, airconditioning, alternator and belts back on with no diagram(removed it all a few months ago when we did the rings and bearings)

You meen the Flange the Exhast bolts too?

Post by **high n mighty** » Tue Dec 05, 2006 10:19 pm

RUFF wrote:
high n mighty wrote:Now the only hurdle is finding what sort of flange it is on the back of the turbo(think I will remove the rear housing tomorrow) and glue the zorst back up. Plus I have to put the radiator, airconditioning, alternator and belts back on with no diagram(removed it all a few months ago when we did the rings and bearings)

You meen the Flange the Exhast bolts too?

Yep, I need only the exhaust flange. I can Use my old exhaust with only a short extension.

If you know the name of it I would be over the moon

Apart from that I will remove the rear housing tomorrow and find a flange.

Everyone loves flange

Post by **high n mighty** » Sun Dec 10, 2006 12:29 pm

Had to have a flange machined up, $44.

Got the wrong exhaust bits twice

After a few hours of chopping, welding manipulating and R+R the exhaust is on.

I am happy now, the exhaust doesn't rattle any more, it is quiter than it ever has been, it doesn't blow anymore than a slight puff of smoke when it starts cold and the engine doesn't have any knocking since I done the rings and bearings

Gave it a quick squirt a couple of houses down and back and it doesn't seem to have the power my old switzer gave me but there is no lag or anything

Post by **ferrit** » Sun Dec 10, 2006 12:50 pm

The lack of apparent power compared to the Shwitzer has a lot to do with the fact that a CT20 is very, very small for a 2.8L engine

Post by **high n mighty** » Sun Dec 10, 2006 1:57 pm

ferrit wrote:The lack of apparent power compared to the Shwitzer has a lot to do with the fact that a CT20 is very, very small for a 2.8L engine

Yip, but it is instant smooth power and is still at factory boost. My switzer was on about 9psi

Post by **roadrunner** » Sat Nov 10, 2007 12:37 am

I'll drag this up as I'm just starting my own CT20 onto 3L conversion....

So if I read the thread right, it doesn't matter which water cooling line from the turbo (there are two) goes to which heater hose as long as you join them down near the thermostat ?? (I have brass fitting ready to plumb into the heater hoses)

Also, can you simply T piece the oil return line from the turbo into the return line for the alternator ??

Does a dump pipe make much difference, I have the 2LTE exhaust from the turbo, but will make a dump pipe before I fit it if its worthwhile?

On the drivers side of the block, just forward (10mm) of the alternator oil intake line, is a bolt going into the block... I think this allows access to the oil gallery.... is this right ??

Cheers
Mark

Post by **4wheeling** » Wed Dec 26, 2007 6:24 am

I put a turbo on my 3L and did a whole step by step write up on it on our website. It goes in to a lot of detail and answers a lot of questions.

Check out the article: http://4wheeling.ca/index.php?option=co ... view&id=26

I also installed a centerforce clutch in my 3L Hilux: http://4wheeling.ca/index.php?option=co ... view&id=29

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