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what wood for drawer system

General Tech Talk

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what wood for drawer system

Post by tropey »

I'm going to start making a new drawer setup for the back. What type of wood would you recommend ?
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Post by v840 »

Marine ply
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Post by chimpboy »

I used a mix of 12mm and 19mm ply, not marine ply (but marine ply would be even better). Also used a bit of 20x20mm rhs steel as well, at various points.
This is not legal advice.
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Post by AussieGQ »

Formboard!
Shane

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Re: what wood for drawer system

Post by bogged »

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Post by =SKB= »

Marine ply or external ply with a coat of bondcrete sealant.
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Post by Struth »

Normal ply would suffice unless you plan on getting it wet.
Screw and glue it all and it should last a long time.

Cheers
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Post by suzuki boy »

I ussed 12mm marine ply covered in carpet! Havn't had any problems with it! :cool:
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Post by JBE »

I used 17mm C-D grade plywood. It's easy to bolt it together with 65mm long screws. I painted it with Estapol (spelling) which gives it a hard and durable surface and covered the visible areas with carpet.

Cheers
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Post by bj42turbo »

I just used normal 12mm ply, covered with carpet it has been wet quite a few times, as I have a soft top.
Seems fine been in the 40 for quite a few years now

BJ


Image

Image
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Wood for drawers

Post by stinger »

I used form ply as it is easy to wipe clean (insides), glue does not soak as far into requiring less glue. No splinters, water resistant, easy to mark out. Worked well on two draw systems over last 100,000 kms no problems.
Cheers,
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Post by QIKAZZ »

Sorry to Hijack this thread, but have been considering building one of these myself for my 60 cruiser, just out of interest, you guys that have built your own, did you just sit the draws in like it looks like bj42turbo has, or did you use draw rails to make it easier to slide in and out? If so where did you get the rails from, ive found one guy on ebay that has 100kg rails, but eeek $75 a pair, was hoping for somethin cheaper. haha

I just figured with 20m of chain, snatch blocks, tools etc, they may be a bit heavy to slide in and out without runners.

Cheers

Azz
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Post by chimpboy »

QIKAZZ wrote:Sorry to Hijack this thread, but have been considering building one of these myself for my 60 cruiser, just out of interest, you guys that have built your own, did you just sit the draws in like it looks like bj42turbo has, or did you use draw rails to make it easier to slide in and out? If so where did you get the rails from, ive found one guy on ebay that has 100kg rails, but eeek $75 a pair, was hoping for somethin cheaper. haha

I just figured with 20m of chain, snatch blocks, tools etc, they may be a bit heavy to slide in and out without runners.

Cheers

Azz
I did mine using skate bearings and 20x20mm rhs for runners. It works well, and I'd bet anything it's stronger than 99% of the retail runners.

I don't have a photo of the 100% finished job, but here is a nearly-finished writeup:
chimpboy wrote:Almost finished rear roller drawers.

Image

The sort-of-L-shaped cut-out you can see in the base is to work around a high spot in the car floor. I also put strips of 8.5mm thick wood underneath to compensate for the corrugation in the floor, so the frame is ribbed for added pleasure.

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Drawers don't have the fronts on in these photos but of course they will have the same carpet face when completed.

Image

The "section" of floor you can see closest to the front of this pic is behind the drawers, it can be removed and there are spaces for my amplifiers, a 12V->240V inverter, and any other stuff I decide to add in the future.

Image

There are 10 skate bearings per drawer, these have an 8mm ID and 22mm OD so they are easy to fix in place with 8mm bolts. They are also very common and cheap, and plenty strong enough. The drawers run on rails made of 20x20mm RHS and are made of 12mm ply. As you can see the drawers are almost but not quite complete. The roller system is very strong and effective, allowing the drawers to roll smoothly in and out and not to "drop" when they are opened.

Image

The drawers don't come out all the way because otherwise they would not stay horizontal, so the last section of the false floor lifts to give access to the very rear of the drawers. It also gives access to two small pockets to behind the wheel arches (ie closest to the doors). Otherwise this space would be wasted. The left one is a good size for a camera and accessories or similar.

I just have to trim down the drawers a bit as I made them a little bit too close for comfort, but this is only a small job.

The false floor is 19mm ply braced with 20mm RHS steel at the ends of each section, so it's very sturdy.

The back seats (ie middle row, back row is gone) still fold and so on the way they are designed too, with just a few mm to spare so there's no wasted space.

...

For anyone wondering the way the bearings support the drawers is - five bearings on each side of each drawer, four underneath to support the weight, and one above to keep the drawer from dropping down when it's opened:

Image
Obviously I've since added handles and latches and replaced the rest of the trim in the cabin.

Jason
This is not legal advice.
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Post by bogged »

QIKAZZ wrote:or did you use draw rails to make it easier to slide in and out? If so where did you get the rails from, ive found one guy on ebay that has 100kg rails, but eeek $75 a pair, was hoping for somethin cheaper. haha
I might have some rails in the shed - they are from computer racking :) hold 100kg there no problems...

or try Carac in Dande
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Post by embryo »

i used standard ply, cos im a tight arse and i figured if it got wet enuf to damage my draw system id have bigger problems than replacing the $100 bucks in timber. i did trim it with carpet. be careful not to spill liquid in the draws tho, you could seal the in side of the draw if you wanted.

nice job chimpboy. i used the 100kg slide for my fridge and 45kg slides for the draws, got them from carac as bogged mentioned
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Post by go piggen »

if you use form ply f17 18mm and paint the edges after you cut it to size you will be able to drive under water and will last for ages it costs about 70-90 a sheet 1200*1800
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Post by bj42turbo »

QIKAZZ wrote:bj42turbo has, or did you use draw rails to make it easier to slide in and out?
Cheers

Azz
Mate I just spray CRC silicon on the bottom of drawers, every now and then

BJ
Last edited by bj42turbo on Wed Jan 10, 2007 1:52 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Post by smiley_smoke »

not sure where i heard it but i remember being told that using wax will assist it to slide and has been proven in kitchen draws etc.. waterproof as well :S
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Post by tropey »

thanks for help peoples.... ply it is.
Does anyone know where to get it cheap in Sydney (western suburbs) ???
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Post by go piggen »

any hardware ,mr ply wood or bigriver timber
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