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what wood for drawer system
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what wood for drawer system
I'm going to start making a new drawer setup for the back. What type of wood would you recommend ?
Wood for drawers
I used form ply as it is easy to wipe clean (insides), glue does not soak as far into requiring less glue. No splinters, water resistant, easy to mark out. Worked well on two draw systems over last 100,000 kms no problems.
Cheers,
Stinger
Locked, lifted, armour plated 80 with hair dryer and 93 fully locked disco with all the extras for touring....
Cheers,
Stinger
Locked, lifted, armour plated 80 with hair dryer and 93 fully locked disco with all the extras for touring....
Sorry to Hijack this thread, but have been considering building one of these myself for my 60 cruiser, just out of interest, you guys that have built your own, did you just sit the draws in like it looks like bj42turbo has, or did you use draw rails to make it easier to slide in and out? If so where did you get the rails from, ive found one guy on ebay that has 100kg rails, but eeek $75 a pair, was hoping for somethin cheaper. haha
I just figured with 20m of chain, snatch blocks, tools etc, they may be a bit heavy to slide in and out without runners.
Cheers
Azz
I just figured with 20m of chain, snatch blocks, tools etc, they may be a bit heavy to slide in and out without runners.
Cheers
Azz
RC Hobbies - Online Store - http://www.qikazz.com.au
I did mine using skate bearings and 20x20mm rhs for runners. It works well, and I'd bet anything it's stronger than 99% of the retail runners.QIKAZZ wrote:Sorry to Hijack this thread, but have been considering building one of these myself for my 60 cruiser, just out of interest, you guys that have built your own, did you just sit the draws in like it looks like bj42turbo has, or did you use draw rails to make it easier to slide in and out? If so where did you get the rails from, ive found one guy on ebay that has 100kg rails, but eeek $75 a pair, was hoping for somethin cheaper. haha
I just figured with 20m of chain, snatch blocks, tools etc, they may be a bit heavy to slide in and out without runners.
Cheers
Azz
I don't have a photo of the 100% finished job, but here is a nearly-finished writeup:
Obviously I've since added handles and latches and replaced the rest of the trim in the cabin.chimpboy wrote:Almost finished rear roller drawers.
The sort-of-L-shaped cut-out you can see in the base is to work around a high spot in the car floor. I also put strips of 8.5mm thick wood underneath to compensate for the corrugation in the floor, so the frame is ribbed for added pleasure.
Drawers don't have the fronts on in these photos but of course they will have the same carpet face when completed.
The "section" of floor you can see closest to the front of this pic is behind the drawers, it can be removed and there are spaces for my amplifiers, a 12V->240V inverter, and any other stuff I decide to add in the future.
There are 10 skate bearings per drawer, these have an 8mm ID and 22mm OD so they are easy to fix in place with 8mm bolts. They are also very common and cheap, and plenty strong enough. The drawers run on rails made of 20x20mm RHS and are made of 12mm ply. As you can see the drawers are almost but not quite complete. The roller system is very strong and effective, allowing the drawers to roll smoothly in and out and not to "drop" when they are opened.
The drawers don't come out all the way because otherwise they would not stay horizontal, so the last section of the false floor lifts to give access to the very rear of the drawers. It also gives access to two small pockets to behind the wheel arches (ie closest to the doors). Otherwise this space would be wasted. The left one is a good size for a camera and accessories or similar.
I just have to trim down the drawers a bit as I made them a little bit too close for comfort, but this is only a small job.
The false floor is 19mm ply braced with 20mm RHS steel at the ends of each section, so it's very sturdy.
The back seats (ie middle row, back row is gone) still fold and so on the way they are designed too, with just a few mm to spare so there's no wasted space.
...
For anyone wondering the way the bearings support the drawers is - five bearings on each side of each drawer, four underneath to support the weight, and one above to keep the drawer from dropping down when it's opened:
Jason
This is not legal advice.
I might have some rails in the shed - they are from computer racking hold 100kg there no problems...QIKAZZ wrote:or did you use draw rails to make it easier to slide in and out? If so where did you get the rails from, ive found one guy on ebay that has 100kg rails, but eeek $75 a pair, was hoping for somethin cheaper. haha
or try Carac in Dande
i used standard ply, cos im a tight arse and i figured if it got wet enuf to damage my draw system id have bigger problems than replacing the $100 bucks in timber. i did trim it with carpet. be careful not to spill liquid in the draws tho, you could seal the in side of the draw if you wanted.
nice job chimpboy. i used the 100kg slide for my fridge and 45kg slides for the draws, got them from carac as bogged mentioned
nice job chimpboy. i used the 100kg slide for my fridge and 45kg slides for the draws, got them from carac as bogged mentioned
dont tell the missus
Mate I just spray CRC silicon on the bottom of drawers, every now and thenQIKAZZ wrote:bj42turbo has, or did you use draw rails to make it easier to slide in and out?
Cheers
Azz
BJ
Last edited by bj42turbo on Wed Jan 10, 2007 1:52 pm, edited 1 time in total.
not sure where i heard it but i remember being told that using wax will assist it to slide and has been proven in kitchen draws etc.. waterproof as well :S
2" Susp lift, Ext shackles, RTC damper; Offsets, Custom interior panels, Stereo (+Sub), rubber Checkerplate floor, Custom Centre console, Under bonnet storage
Soon: Aircon + tinting?
Soon: Aircon + tinting?
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