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CHANGING FROM MAXI'S TO GQ DIFFS IN RANGIE

Tech Talk for Rover owners.

Moderator: Micka

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CHANGING FROM MAXI'S TO GQ DIFFS IN RANGIE

Post by NUMB »

HI GUYS. I'M IN THE MIDDLE OF BUILDING A WINCH CHALLENGE TRUCK AND HAVE DECIDED TO CHANGE MY DIFF OVER. NOT KNOWING MUCH ABOUT RANGIES I'M UP FOR SUGGESTIONS. I HAVE FULLY BRACED DIFFS FRONT & REAR WITH MAXI DRIVE LOCKERS AND AXIALS AND SUPPOSED TO HAVE 4'11 RATIOS. I;VE BEEN TOLD THE FRONT GQ CONVERSION IS STRAIGHT FORWARD BUT TO PUT REAR GQ IS A BIT HARDER. SOMEONE ALSO SAID THAT 80SERS REAR DIFF IS THE GO. SO IF ANYONE CAN THROW SUGGESTIONS MY WAY IT WOULD BE GREAT. CHEERS. :) :)
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Post by defmec »

how much for the front axle disc to disc
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Post by GRIMACE »

how much for both :D
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Post by defmec »

:x
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Post by uninformed »

turn your caps lock OFF
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Post by ISUZUROVER »

defmec wrote:how much for the front axle disc to disc
Me 2!

But to answer your question - 80 series rear is what you want.
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Post by NUMB »

I thought i was asking for advise , not posting a 4sale. They will be up 4sale once i have finished building this truck. What r they worth guys? Apparently they must be hard 2 find. Any how i'll let you all know when that happens. Meanwhile anymore advise would be great. CHEERS
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Post by V8 Rangie »

Have 80 series in rear of mine and GQ front

finally got all sorted :lol: (used to have GQ rear) bad choice :roll:

Anyways i'm looking at another Rangie.. would like to go Maxi

Not worth much anymore since they don't make em.. will give you say 1.5k for the lot :armsup:

Camo
1994 Range Rover Soft Dash, Rear ARB Locker, 33's, 2" body & Spring, custom bits
2004 Range Rover Diesel 20" wheels. My Black Beauty:-)
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Post by NUMB »

Thanks CAMO!! what was the prob with GQ rear? Is the maxi system better?
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Post by defmec »

go gq diffs the maxi,s suck ........................i,ll give ya $1500 for the front :D
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Post by Micka »

NUMB wrote:Thanks CAMO!! what was the prob with GQ rear? Is the maxi system better?
The problem with the Nissan diff is the location of the pumpkin. Being a centre-mounted diff means that the angle for the drive shaft is too great and causes vibration issues and possible premature failing of the unis and pinion bearings.

The 80 series rear lines up pretty well with the transfer output, that is why most people use the 80 series rear instead of Nissan.
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Post by V8 Rangie »

Micka wrote:
NUMB wrote:Thanks CAMO!! what was the prob with GQ rear? Is the maxi system better?
The problem with the Nissan diff is the location of the pumpkin. Being a centre-mounted diff means that the angle for the drive shaft is too great and causes vibration issues and possible premature failing of the unis and pinion bearings.

The 80 series rear lines up pretty well with the transfer output, that is why most people use the 80 series rear instead of Nissan.
Yep what he said :D
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Post by NUMB »

Thanks for that guys. Hows the track line up between the 80 and GQ?
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Post by V8 Rangie »

Same track width on both :)

It really does work well.. plus having a wider track than the rover is great too

Camo
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Post by PacMan »

Hi,

the diff of the GQ is so big that you need 3" bigger tyres to get the same clearance under the diff.

And to get the same ratio nissan/toyota you need a diff centre from the 75 series in the back.

Stay on the maxis or do a toy conversion.

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Chris
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Post by DaveS3 »

PacMan wrote:Hi,

1)the diff of the GQ is so big that you need 3" bigger tyres to get the same clearance under the diff.

2)And to get the same ratio nissan/toyota you need a diff centre from the 75 series in the back.

3)Stay on the maxis or do a toy conversion.

Greetings
Chris
1)No. You loose 10mm under the diff (STD GQ Rear - in comparison to a ROUND rover rear, the flat bottom may gain an extra 5mm or so)

That equates to 1'' greater in diameter, Not 3''.

2) No. 4.10 to 4.11 is 0.0024% difference (ie negligible)

3) Each to their own

Cheers
Dave.
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Post by DaveS3 »

I've just started this conversion.

I'm using adjustable rear control arms to ensure that the GQ pinion flange is parallel to the TC output flange at ride height to reduce / remove vibrations.

I'm also using GQ tail shafts, as the uni's are also bigger to combat this issue.

For what I paid for both front and rear diffs, I'm having a go using the GQ diff.

Good luck

Dave.
Land Rover Discovery - GQ conversion underway
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Post by RangingRover »

2) No. 4.10 to 4.11 is 0.0024% difference (ie negligible)
Surprisingly, not as negligible as you might think:

http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/phpBB2/ft ... 0-asc-.php
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Post by DaveS3 »

RangingRover wrote:
2) No. 4.10 to 4.11 is 0.0024% difference (ie negligible)
Surprisingly, not as negligible as you might think:

http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/phpBB2/ft ... 0-asc-.php
There you go - interesting that there others running 4.1 to 4.11 without the same complaint though.

As is a comp car, I'd run it.

Cheers
Dave.
Land Rover Discovery - GQ conversion underway
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Post by PacMan »

Hi,

a GQ axle in the back is always a problem because the drive shaft.

But anyway i am speak about the clearance under the front diff ( ~1.3" lower than RR front diff).

Greetings
Chris
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Post by V8 Rangie »

DaveS3 wrote:I've just started this conversion.

I'm using adjustable rear control arms to ensure that the GQ pinion flange is parallel to the TC output flange at ride height to reduce / remove vibrations.

I'm also using GQ tail shafts, as the uni's are also bigger to combat this issue.

For what I paid for both front and rear diffs, I'm having a go using the GQ diff.

Good luck

Dave.
Have fun with the vibes :rofl:

My biggest regret was taking advise from an engineer.. said rear GQ would be fine if setup right.. biggest load of crap!!

Have fun with it though Dave... fine offroad but after an hour on the highway you will get sick of it real quick

Camo
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Post by ISUZUROVER »

V8 Rangie wrote:
DaveS3 wrote:I've just started this conversion.

I'm using adjustable rear control arms to ensure that the GQ pinion flange is parallel to the TC output flange at ride height to reduce / remove vibrations.

I'm also using GQ tail shafts, as the uni's are also bigger to combat this issue.

For what I paid for both front and rear diffs, I'm having a go using the GQ diff.

Good luck

Dave.
Have fun with the vibes :rofl:

My biggest regret was taking advise from an engineer.. said rear GQ would be fine if setup right.. biggest load of crap!!

Have fun with it though Dave... fine offroad but after an hour on the highway you will get sick of it real quick

Camo
Camo, the difference in ratios is LESS than the variation you would get front-back in tyre diameter if you were running different brands or a couple of PSI difference in pressure. I don't doubt you experiencedd what you did, but I can't see how it was caused by the ratio difference.
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Post by DaveS3 »

PacMan wrote:Hi,

a GQ axle in the back is always a problem because the drive shaft.

But anyway i am speak about the clearance under the front diff ( ~1.3" lower than RR front diff).

Greetings
Chris
No worries.

I'm not sure where you got the 1.3'' from but anyway.

I'm dubious on others conversions as they CAN be set up with none if not minimal vibes (ie after 110 - 120+km/h)
I can certainly live with that.

Cheers.
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Post by DaveS3 »

V8 Rangie wrote:
DaveS3 wrote:I've just started this conversion.

I'm using adjustable rear control arms to ensure that the GQ pinion flange is parallel to the TC output flange at ride height to reduce / remove vibrations.

I'm also using GQ tail shafts, as the uni's are also bigger to combat this issue.

For what I paid for both front and rear diffs, I'm having a go using the GQ diff.

Good luck

Dave.
Have fun with the vibes :rofl:

My biggest regret was taking advise from an engineer.. said rear GQ would be fine if setup right.. biggest load of crap!!

Have fun with it though Dave... fine offroad but after an hour on the highway you will get sick of it real quick

Camo
For my sake I just hope I have better luck :lol:
Either way, I'm willing to try as it is costing me not much more than my time.

Cheers
Dave.
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Post by V8 Rangie »

Must have go the GQ's cheap! haha

LC's only go for around $500..

Camo
Last edited by V8 Rangie on Tue Jun 17, 2008 10:15 pm, edited 1 time in total.
1994 Range Rover Soft Dash, Rear ARB Locker, 33's, 2" body & Spring, custom bits
2004 Range Rover Diesel 20" wheels. My Black Beauty:-)
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Post by V8 Rangie »

ISUZUROVER wrote:

Camo, the difference in ratios is LESS than the variation you would get front-back in tyre diameter if you were running different brands or a couple of PSI difference in pressure. I don't doubt you experiencedd what you did, but I can't see how it was caused by the ratio difference.
I know.. I couldn't understand it either.. normal driving was fine.. but when you put the centre diff lock in the car would start to shake after 20 meters on the tar. (brand new tyres all round)

Soon as I put the 4.11 in the rear i tried with the centre diff lock in and suprise suprise.. no shake at all!

One happy camper here :armsup: .. cheap and easy fix.

time for some Pro Lockers in the next few weeks

Camo
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Post by Corgie Carrier »

Has anyone put an 80 series diff in the front? What is the difference with the GQ?

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Post by Micka »

Corgie Carrier wrote:Has anyone put an 80 series diff in the front? What is the difference with the GQ?

Neale
Nissans have a bigger diff. 80 series is an 8" diff and the nissan is 9.25".
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Post by 1MadEngineer »

i still don't know why anyone would go to the effort of putting gq diffs in a rover??? no matter what you do the nissan diffs can't be built as strong a toy 60 series diffs for the same $$$. and the 60's are offset F&R!!! they are less prone to bending the front at the swivel ball like nissans, the kingpin inclination is better which makes them WAAAAAY less sensititve to castor changes (less nissan death wobbles). DAMN you can buy a WHOLE 60 series for <$500, the diff centers are interchangeable as are the lockers, the rear axles are stronger (better material and hardening process). there is SOOOOO much aftermarket stuff for them cheap!!!.

If you are going to go to the effort of a diff swap the do it properly, not just half-ar$ed. put decent mounts on the 60's diff, cut and rotate the knucles to get better shaft/pinion angles and put some good chromo bits in it!!! then wheel the beeejeesusss out of it!!! Rovers have such a good drivetrain, don't spoil it with nissan junk..
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Post by RUFF »

1MadEngineer wrote:i still don't know why anyone would go to the effort of putting gq diffs in a rover??? no matter what you do the nissan diffs can't be built as strong a toy 60 series diffs for the same $$$. and the 60's are offset F&R!!! they are less prone to bending the front at the swivel ball like nissans, the kingpin inclination is better which makes them WAAAAAY less sensititve to castor changes (less nissan death wobbles). DAMN you can buy a WHOLE 60 series for <$500, the diff centers are interchangeable as are the lockers, the rear axles are stronger (better material and hardening process). there is SOOOOO much aftermarket stuff for them cheap!!!.

If you are going to go to the effort of a diff swap the do it properly, not just half-ar$ed. put decent mounts on the 60's diff, cut and rotate the knucles to get better shaft/pinion angles and put some good chromo bits in it!!! then wheel the beeejeesusss out of it!!! Rovers have such a good drivetrain, don't spoil it with nissan junk..
I doubt the 60 series diffs are wide enough to fit under a rover.
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