Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Full time 105 c/v has different spline to Part time 105 c/v's, which are thesame as 80 series constant/part time, so they mate to 80 drive flange on 80 hub/disc/calliper up front, and 80 series lsd side gears in 105 centre with 80 axles/hubs, or just put an 80 diff centre/pumpkin in the 105 housing ...

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this is exactly what i fit in my 80

you can buy the seal from ses bearings for $50

you can bolt 79 series or 105 series swivel hubs onto an 80 series diff or go the other way the 80 and 105 are heaps wider than the 79 i think the leading arms are located further apart as well (80/105) rails are wider just hook a drag chain round a tree lol :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: and hit reverse :D ...

you can bolt 79 series or 105 series swivel hubs onto an 80 series diff or go the other way the 80 and 105 are heaps wider than the 79 i think the leading arms are located further apart as well (80/105) rails are wider just hook a drag chain round a tree lol :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: and hit reverse :D ...

Gents, a mate wants to run a 2wd lux diff with a supra Torsen centre in his ford mustang...they r both G series diffs so i think it can be done...my question is...can it also be done using a 4runner v6 diff ??? ive heard there things not interchangeable between them...reason for wanting v6 is he is ...

I stand corrected, cast block AND 32 valves it is...dont know why i thought it was a 16 valver.

2uz has 2 valves cast heads.....1uz has 4 valves twin cams and alloy heads. 2uz is torque, 1uz is revs and power

Kean, i have a good one in wollongong...you may be able to get one closer to home...better to buy one working and bolt it in, then save the $$ 300 max is the going price

1.82 exhaust is for a race car....you wont get that spooling till 4000rpm. 0.6 is somewhere around what you need for a diseasal. Maybe the configuration is 0.82 i would expect MTQ to supply a diesel turbo.

caster caster caster, i bet you have a 3 inch plus lift to fit 37's as it lifts up, the diff tilts forward and you run on the outer sides of each tyre....you need to fix your caster...i had exactly thesame on 35's after putting 2 extra leaves into a OME pack...gear stick left bruises on my leg ...

Put a sling on the bent front part and wrap it around the stump and drive backwards fast.

The input shaft is shorter on a 3f and the bell is shallower....so to get a 1hz fz hdt infront is a PITA not to mention each have a different spline to the 3f (which is thesame as holden v8), to change the input shaft, the whole box has to come appart, you could possibly space the bell or box to ...

I believe it is the sub tank breather and it should terminate inside the chassis cross over .

bearings in the transfer are on their way, cogs move under load, and pop the selector past its detent spring and out she comes...or said spring has failed...

4.56 is available in the petrol Bundera front axle which is a high pinion as in the 80 front....so swaps in... but rear 4.56 80 series is after-market all the way. Ask Daz on here for a price.

I have a 100 rear end in my 80 converted to 6 stud so i could use the 100 hubs with bigger axle studs and 32 spline axles . On the front you could use 80 hubs modified to take 100 disc rotor,100 axle studs and drive plates ( front hasn't been tested but i believe it would work ) but this is a ...

Your easiest option is to swap your box for a petrol 105 gearbox and transfer. Then, you need a diesel 80 series bell. This will give you t/d clutch setup. If you only have the 1hz flywheel, a fzj75 clutchplate fits in the 1hz pressureplate to match the spline...a safari tough clutch pressure plate ...

early vx from Japan had them. at a guess, the late 60 system would retro too

they swap, but are the l;ast thing to come out of the box, so it needs to come fully appart. The other option is to find a 12 inch clutch plate for your spline and an Izuzu truck plate is the answer....downer is the price...4-500

a comp truck and a tow rig are two different beasts.....tow 3 tonnes up a long hill at 5000 rpm and 25 psi and see how long it takes for the crank to get an alloy coating...luckily, you only do that on the obsticles, and idle down the other side.......looking at this conversation from another view ...

second that, at 33 inches, they are a good skinny tyre....

mick80 wrote:i got 2 plus 2 and 35s and it aint pretty on full flex in the rear even with half worn tires.
they scrub hard!
go for a three and body lift.
brakelines r easy.
my 2 cents
cheers mick

r u running std offset rims Mick? a set of +20 offset sunnies will bring the tyre away from the chassis

hey all, I am wanting to do a 4inch lift to my cruiser done some research and the cheapest i can find seems to be the ironman kit for around 1200 plus then brake line extensions and castor plates, is there any other suspention cheaper or better for same price. Thanks Wade Wade do the 2 inch ...

there are many ways to skin the cat....to keep it all std, use 80 series diff centre, axles (and axle seals) and hubs/discs- all bolt in...or make one off mods to hub or axle or both (and hope it stays together) or u can put 80 series side gears in a 105 arb locker and run the 80 axles with 105 ...

Put it on properly and touch nothing till its setup right...Move the waistegate sensing pipe for the turbo to after the intercooler, or you will only be running 9 psi at the motor...1 psi is lost in cooling the charge...this is only 1 way to get extra pressure, adjusting the gate is another, boost ...

check the 4 bolts that hold the steering arm to the swivel hub...common for them to come loose too
Andrew

at a guess, there is a little bit of tightness between the bushes in the transfer, and this is enough to coax the driveshaft to turn.

capa do a supercharger option for your motor....240kw 550nm bolt on....about 7k reliable and a couple of days drive in/out. Give Motsons a call up your way and have a chat to them.
Andrew

If you have the long c/v, put an extra circlip behind the one in the groove and it is sweet, a little loose but still encapsulated with the free wheelin hub selecter holding the c/v from popping out any further...drove mine around for a couple of years like that.
Andrew