Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Im a simex man through and through but speak to Al Mac or the Road Runner Racing boys and they swear by them in the comp scene. Just the mud terrains pattern, but in 37s

bad_religion_au wrote:is it too late to say flex is overrated?

Hell no!! Flex is overrated! Its all about speed and how well she'll jump.

jaybammm wrote:change them to manual. i had same problem

This is the only advice u need. . . . gq power windows are shit!

Great event Smithi an Co. Racing in the rocks was big eye opener, hopefully was some good practise for Round 2. Finished up on podium with 2nd in Challenge class, many thanks to Silk4x4 Racing, Warragul Motor Wrekers, Action 4wd, Custom Edging, Mitchell Gould Contracting, Distinctive signs, Vin Rowe ...

If u are increasing the wattage up to 100w per light, how much increase in amperage are you experiencing?? Or is the voltage increased by the ballast to compensate?? I currently have 35W H4 in headlights and 55W H1 in Rallye 4000 but would like to see what 100W can do, i just dont want to start ...

Maybe try spacing the back of the bonnet up, found that bonnents that seal really well dont allow enough air out of engine bay relying on the tunnel alone. Leads to an increased pressure build up and air does flow through radiator as it should. Does your intake draw from out of the engine bay ...

mine originally had the air filter over the mixer. by putting in a different airbox was able to make the mixer cover slightly more compact (used old air filter as template for diametre) plus i didn'y think that the ring filter sealed that well anyways. But i honestly dont think it'd make a massive ...

i used 3 inch full stainless have no issues with airflow, have mates with 4'' on race car but it has a habit of getting squashed cause it hangs out a bit further. . . .


http://www.flickr.com/photos/40257133@N08/4139145059/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/40257133@N08/4139890728/

IMO standard manual ones are tough as nails if they are kept in servicable condition. I score mine and run no retaining rings with the bolts to allow them to split and break open before the cv's shatter, specially with lockers and 35+'s. Heaps easier to change a hub in the bush than a cv or axle.

I used a VN 5.0l airbox to ensure good filter seal, made stainless mixer cover, bit of silicon hose and 3inch stainless snorkal. works awesome and still allows easy acess to rear plugs and leads. http://www.flickr.com/photos/40257133@N08/4139086345/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/40257133@N08 ...

it has come to the time of getting new tyres they will be simex centapedes. what i want to know is it worth the extra time and money to fit 36.5 11.5 r15 or is itjust alot easier and cheaper to go with the 35s. i havent priced eather tyre yet cheers if you could help. Depends what width u want. If ...

i'd only be tuning the fuel and boost together with a pressure gauge and a digital pyrometer under various load ie. dyno, to ensure that u dont go too hot. half a turn is pretty extreame adjustment on the injector pump. i'd be careful or else u might get some rings welding to the liners. . .

My tb42, runs at a little under a quater 99% of the time, occasionally gets to about half after flogging it up long hills running lpg and 35's, but viscous fan locks up and temp falls quickly. HD 4 core radiator, bleed off ports in head, good quality coolant, good clean cool sorce for air intake and ...

Mine leaked into the d/s footwell also. found mine to be the door seal had flatened along the a piller. was allowing water in then it ran down the inside of the dash surrond and pooled around accel pedal. Cracked it and replaced all door seals. only cost about 80 bux. problem fixed.

88 LWB GQ, 4'' tough dog lift, F & R arb lockers, 35 x 12.5 Simes ET2, endless air, outback draws, snainless 3'' snorkal, HID headlights, 10,000 lb warn low mount, semi-laminated front diff, dics brake upgrade

yeah the compressor u have will work fine, but i used 3/8 double braided hyd hoses for my supply line to the tank to 1 handle the heat on the oulet side, and 2 to allow better flow to run rattle guns ect. make sure u put a check valve in the supply line to stop backpressure onto the compressor when ...

not trying to be a negitive to ur ideas, but just be careful "bashing" those tanks, especially near the welds as its easy to cause small cracks, or cause holes in the welds to open up and leak.

curved upper control arms will fix ur issue but also be aware of tailshaft hitting bottom corner of the aftermarket tank with articulation. modifacation of tank is how i solved this issue.