Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Screwy_ScrewBall wrote:will need to cut ur gearbox tunnel out and re make a new peice for the wider gearbox and new shifter holes.

there's a gearbox that's wider than the mq tranny tunnel

i've never driven a more unergonomic pos than my mq - that tranny tunnel takes up better than half the floor!!!

if you can bolt it thru the guard and not thru the lip this is not old news.... it's something that i and several other ppl i know have been trying to find for ages

PICS!!!!!!!!

i went through a coupla allen keys trying to get those bastard bolts out - i soaked the shite outta them with wd40 and i found if i gave them a big wack with a hammer it kinda loosened them enough to get them to crack

the great news is it doesn't seem to be an age thing - i had to pull the hubs off ...

had no problems with my icom.... only thing i'd suggest - get a unit with a BLOODY SQUELCH dial on it!!!!!

for some reason more and more units are coming without squelch now - it's all "automagic"...

maybe it's me clinging to AM but surely a squelch knob is a pretty basic feature?!?!?

re previous ...

don't bother taking out the load bearing in the back... just cut the ends off them with an oxy - saves you dealing with siezed u bolts. takes all of 5 minutes to do

more flex in the back means you'll prolly end up rubbing on your guards - and the back guards are a bitch to cut cos of the way they ...

that's only about 15l / 100 klm.

my na sd33 chews about 18 or so per 100klm on the highway (much worse off road).... i don't have a tacho so i rev it till it stops accelerating

i also use about 1 litre of oil every 400k's

i used aviation shears.... cheap, quick and easy

ditch the sway bar.... it's gunna handle like shiat anyway :D

can't really think of an easy way to explain what a sway bar is without pictures - look for the useless bit of round steel (about inch thick) that runs across the vehicle - attaches with kinda like a pipe clamp (from memory to the front ...

thanks kingy - will have another read of your members thread.

i went down to have another look at the 5 speed i have and saw it already has a tcase attached

since i seem to have the choice of either - is there any advantage of one over the other? strength? ratios?

and once you get the front flexing nicely the front driveshaft fouls on the xmember and that's all the down travel you're gunna get without cutting

yes .......

But its not as simple as you may think it is ;)

allow a few quiet hours to do this swap .... exactness is paramount

Kingy

awww crap :bad-words:

i have a 5 speed sitting under the house that im gunna install one day - i assumed it would just bolt up to my existing tcase ...

i've got an sd33 with an honest 1/2million k's on it... currntly running this engine. it's gutless and blows a bit of smoke but i think that's par for the course with this engine :D

i've also got an sd33 in the parts car with only 240thousand k's on it - runs well, supposedly rebuilt 40thousand k ...

been done to death

SEARCH

most uhf manufacturers will offer a din kit for their units.

this easily allows you to mount in a standard car stereo size slot.

i got one for my icom awhile back and i think it was only about 20 bucks.

most stockish looking mq's you see getting around seem to sit a bit low in the front.

my front end seems to sit about an inch lower than the rear (heavy steel bar and farked springs)

just cut the guards and go with the flow

an update.....

when i re-assembled the hub there's a ring that sits between the rotor and the hub (nfi what it's called)..... anyway - i put it in the wrong way around which meant the gear on the hub couldnt engage.

one thing i'll never get wrong again

i did some more experimenting....

wheel up in the air while i lock and unlock the other side as well as the side up in the air. end result - nfi, i'm too drunken to make sense of it all

might make more sense in the morning

N*A*M wrote:do you have a front locker and was it engaged?

not that i know of.... judging by off road performance i'd say no

just redid the wheel bearings on the mq...

engage 4wd, engine off
jack up front passenger side - wheel spins. lock hub > wheel won't spin
jack up front drivers side - wheel spins. lock hub > wheel STILL spins??

is the freewheeling hub stuffed or have i screwed something up when i put it back ...

thanks Kingy.... answered a lot of my questions

i was drowning my sorrows last night with a mate and jumped in the mq to show him the problem and it went 2 turns each way lock to lock!!!!!!!

i did it again this morning to make sure it wasnt the beer counting - and it's working exactly as it's ...

thanks everyone for the replies....

an update - IVE DONE NOTHING! :oops:

anyway - today i got the batteries juiced up, got the beast running again so i could bleed the power steering in the hope that everything would come good..... not surprisinigly it didnt :cry:

im not that familiar on how a ...

Big Red Toy wrote:2 full turns both directions, you my friend have a problemo

bugger

installed power steer into the mq....

with the front end off the ground and engine off i turn from centre to full lock...

turning right (on the steering stop) it takes 2 complete turns of the steering wheel
turning left (on the steering stop) it takes 1 and a 1/2 complete turns of the steering ...

thanks guys...

i figured it out (im an idiot)

there was this bracket floating around in the box the kit came in and i didnt really give it much thought. that bracket bolts to the side of the injector pump.... and the mounting plates on the p/s pump bolt to that.

pump is now mounted and im out of ...

anyone got a pic of how this mounts up?

im putting nissan powersteer on the mq and it's never had it fitted - i have 2 brackets on the mounting plate of the p/s pump.... it looks as if i put a bolt right thru something and bang a nut on the other end. maybe the front of the injector pump?

your timing is excellent - im halfway through doing the front end on the mq at the moment

your explanation is a hell of a lot better than the gregorys

heaps of hammering, heaps of wd40, and heaps of extension bar action and i finally got them all out.

pulled the hub off and and few metal shavings came out with it - always a good sign.

now im stumped again....

i got the drive bush off and i can see the adjusting nut but i can't get at it. the ...

aaarrrgh.

sat down to strip the front end of the mq this morning. cannot budge the retaining bolts for the free wheeling hubs.

ive tried wd40, ive tried flogging it with a hammer, ive tried wrenching on the allen key with a massive extension bar and if i give it anymore the allen key will snap ...

id be VERY surprised if you get someone who is at all technical enough to answer the above kinda queries (if you do... i want their phone number!)

you may have more luck with broad policy type questions...

one i would love to have answered is.... there has been talk for years of a national set of ...

and with a rocky there's no way you can be accused of being one of those P platers with overpowered high performance cars