Outer Limits 4x4 Board

I am building a gq ute up for everyday driving and heavy offroad use. I have decided i like the idea of having a manualised auto - mates auto gets great fuel economy and if i can manualise it like im imagining can be done it would be great offroad.

I know of alot of comp trucks that run auto boxes ...

can it be done without too much fuss? what would need to be changed/replaced? Same with td42 out of 24v safari, will the sensors etc still be ok?

bump. id be interested to know if anyone has any info, unless its secret information...

There was a bit on this a while back, and the advice from the engineer was to fit the patrol/landcruiser coil suspension etc to the 45 series chassis, thus keeping it a "45 series" with suspension modifications.
Reason being was that the 45 series could not possibly pass the body crash test thingy ...

hahaha i realised that some landcruiser/patrol diehard fans may find it an abomination... but i cant pass up the classic fj tough looking ute on bombproof gq running gear with unbreakable td42 turboed powerhouse :armsup: I have had and loved both trucks and currently still have a maverick.

thanks ...

I am looking at swapping the cab off a fj45 ute onto a 91 lwb gq wagon chaddis. It will use the existing engine (td42), and driveline and susension from patrol. I plan to have as many fibreglass panels as possible to keep it nice and light.

I am after any words of wisdom regarding what areas are ...

its been telling me it doesnt recognise my login details for a few days... might i have to re-register once this is all sorted out?

the surfing smurf wrote:cheers coxy, ive ordered the genuine units today, and will have a crack this weekend, thanks 4 your advise mate

how much were they just out if interest...think i might be up for some.

check that the cap/dust seal on the pinion nut is tight and not spinning and making that noise. (where the tailshaft bolts to diff centre)

mine did the same thing but randomly and its a very annoying noise exactly like u have explained. i changed my bearing just for the hell of it once i had it all ...

Nope LOL! not litres of that type of fluid but over the 2 days of doing more bleeding/adjusting and swearing, then the 10 k round trip drive to my quiet braking test track something like 10 times (the GQ takes a fair stretch to get to 80-100km/h :cry: ) if I ever need to do this again I will get ...

check that the overflow bottle cap is the right way.... should be constant piping from radiator overflow to the water in overflow bottle..

yeh its the needle bearing in the stub axle. tried getting it out today, broke the cage off. then used a slide hammer and gripped onto the outer lip of the race. I managed to get a good grip on it but the lip broke out before i was able to get it out. Tried again and same thing. Dont really like my ...

the wire u cut and call the 'earth' would have actually been the 'lights' signal (think it is black/purple stripe from memory) which gets 12V+ when lights are turned on (to dim your radio...mostly on stock units). As the auto leccy said connect another earth to the unit and you will have no dramas ...

gday. just replacing needle bearing after snapping cv at axle section approx 3inches from outside of hub..

noticed that the needle bearings were seized and perhaps this contributed to damage. is there an easy way to get these out or just a matter of 'folding' up the bearing with a punch/screwdriver ...

top job guys setting everything up and having it run nice and smooth. I had an awesome time and will definitely be back next year...

no major damage just few little bends and rock rash - if anyone finds my vertical rollers from winch fairlead let me know hahaha

I wouldnt go anywhere near sms diesel i am a diesel mechanic and we bought a reco engine from them after about 1000kms it started using oil and they wouldnt warrant it they where a real pack of assholes about it no help at all to the customer so my work ended up stripping the engine and found oval ...

yeh i would splice into the headlight harness on whichever side is easiest to get at and closest to the battery you are going to be powering the lights from - prob drivers side easiest. You dont necessarily have to 'cut' the wiring out... i would just make sure nothing is ever going to short out and ...

cheers will have to have a look into it further..

130w at 13V = 10 amps, x2 would be a 20 amp draw, more on cold start.

40 amp fuse + relay + wiring appropriate at a minimum.

Have you accidentally wired it so both hi/lo beams are on at once? no the wires and pluga are back to standard , tested with test llight ,,,just changed globes h4 7inch ...

are u ending up with a fair bit in your overflow bottle??

Mine was loosing water very slowly into overflow... ended up finding the overflow bottle cap was back to front. When it got hot it would push out water...then as it cooled it would suck air back in!!

swapped it over and havent lost a drop ...

this is happening on an old Fiat 615 tractor but i figure its just a diesel engine...

Any ideas where it might be getting into there though? my thoughts are an injector pump seal has failed allowing it to run through the drive gear into the sump/???

no idea really tho..

if its on the box just go read it off a set instore and tell them that

nice work. are u going to put a bit of pipe or similar around the drain bung?

220 seems a bit steep for the kit in my opinion. think i might see what i can make along the same lines..

also do i need to remove centre (with locker) or drop oil to weld it on?? or leave all in??
thanks for the info.

its gunna be rougher and not flex as good in short.

prob still get it where they are goin tho.

big red wrote:globes too long ?
maybe your shorting a terminal post when putting them in ?

he said he can have either one in by itself no probs..

checked there site. looks pretty good. have to check clearance on sump for that top brace..

some electronic pyro guages (like the auberins one from group buy) have an output which can control a relay for buzzer etc at set temps. could easily wire this to drive spray pump when getting hot.

i was going to set one of these up using the rear washer pump on my mav.

what diff Armour do you have? where is it from? approx price? is it good (protection vs. bulkyness)?

any recommendations?

Looking for something for front diff on GQ wagon.

cheers
Matt

i thought lightforce have 'lifetime warranty'?

am i wrong??

what type of truck is it.?

its a mav wagon.

i think i might keep the classic locks for a bit longer.

-44 on 10 inch rim is the same offset as -19 on a 8 inch rim, both have 3.75 inches backspacing.

Keep the MT classic lock alloys they are -30 offset and are stronger and lighter than steel ...