Outer Limits 4x4 Board

and thats fixed it still hunting a little at idle but i think that is the o2 sensor that had been shorting out on the front driveshaft.....

and as i found out 2nite, all the intake bolts stripped from (im guessing) swapping the injectors........ all fun and games, so new bolts, and rethread the manifold and thats one problem down

yeh, i actually bought this triton, turns out the tensioner was left loose, and the belt was skipping one the cams, the sounding like a tractor part was the belt hitting on the timing belt covers, put them back to good, but seems to still be running rough, so can any gaurantee these are non ...

genuine mitsubishi, or maybe find something similar from another type of vehicle, Dan

in all honesty m8, u arent going to be able to get a straight answer, cause its only going to be a personal opinion, but IMO my swb paj goes everywhere that the boys in there heavily moddified patrols and cruzers go, it all depends on what line u take ot how u drive, obviously not as effort is ...

then that would cause tow in, not tow out wouldnt it?

yer, my starter is a bit on the noisy side after loosing my gearbox inspection plate while in mushy clay, also caked the bell housing full of mud so my throwout bearing wouldnt let the clutch disengage, was like keeping ur foot on the clutch pedal lol, so i think il sikaflex the bastard on this time ...

id be checking ur castor of the front wheels, u may have bent a lower or upper control arm back and in a bit causing the hweels to kick out at the front, other than that im stumped, unless ur tie-rod end has stripped a bit of thread,

sumtimes cv knocks can dissapear under braking also, or can be amplified when braking, and with running one smaller tyre on the front u have just doubled ur risk of killing a cv, or as above would be the easiest check, and if not id be looking there.

would have to be pretty bent to give the above signs, im sure the front wheels pointing towards each other would be a dead give away, id be checking ur pitman arm for sure, then go on and check ur steering arms,

id be guessing a cv, or steering stops

the mitsi scorpion also run the same diff centre, u can get them in a 3.36 and a 3.9 if u look hard enough, and they r a direct bolt in, as i used to use gen 1 pajero centres in my race cars for the 4.6 ratio lol

well this is my 87 mmc import swb pajero, bought it stock as a rock with 132k on it and a blown g63b 2litre so gave it the 2.6 astron powerplant, came with factory rear lsd and a few other lil things, now its got 3inch raised OME rear leaves with front torsion cranked up to match with modified ...

more than the cost of the box id be guessing lol, i kno a diff centre from cairns to brissy is $90, so a gearbox and transfer would have to be around $200,

the bolt pattern on the back of the block on a pajero is the same as a scorpion 2.6 5speed, spline and everything is the same, it will bolt in, u will only be able to run rwd tho, as apparently the transfer wont bolt up unless u use the scorpion internals in the pajero housing, its just an arse ...

tried and failed b4 mate, heard storys of them working, but ive had m8s that have tried and failed, probly easier to find a pajero box anyway.

m8 i used to race a scorpion at speedway here for years, always used a 2.6 wide block found in the magna/pajero/canter and gj sigma on, all engines are interchangeable with a lil work, magna was the only one to use injection tho, id be using your pajero head to keep it easier and leave the carb on ...

ive only just finished rebuilding my engine and it was circle