Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Sounds like your motor has just come out of the desert with a huge thirst. I get around 400 - 450 kms per tank (~45 litres) out of mine in 2WD on tarmac. Its a SV420 and I'm running 225/70/16 MT tyres.

Happened with mine at highway speed - no obvious reason or change of performance. Auto sparky checked it and once the oxygen sensor was replaced no more "engine" light on.

Why give the bloke a hard time? He asked a simple question and it can be done. Plenty of folk over here have showhorned V6s into trials trucks. They aren't worried about road worthyness or budgets.

And in other countries except Australia the Ford Sierra was a fairly popular mid sized car that was also swept up by Cosworth for competition. We have Samurais in New Zealand.

Thanks for that.

My 8274 bar is on the heavy side but it doesn't bend:) If I could figure out how to post an image I'd put one up.
Edit: see how that works

Steve.

I cant help but think it looks like a standard Drover after the air bag went off.

I would like one though.

That's what I'm looking for. SWB 2.0 4 cyl SWB, 1999 manual - no air bags. I'm staying clear of the V6s and autos.

Dont want to hijack thread or start a flame war but I thought the J20 2.0l 4 cyl was a great motor and have been looking for a SWB Vitara with one for a while. Is there a problem with these motors?

Thanks for your help fellas.

I installed front and rear ARBs in February and just filled the diffs up with Valvoline transmission oil (I think its 70 - 90). Just last week I heard someone saying the local ARB agent is recommending Limited Slip Diff oil for them. I cant see a good reason for using this as nothing really slips in ...

Thanks for that. I think I am on the right track. I will start on the swap over.

Can you put up a photo so we can see what you're asking.

I run the Cressida ps box on mine and I found the Vit pitman splines are the same. I bought a vit drop pitman from Low Range. Goes great.

Seem to be overheating. I've used the 1300 radiator for my 1600 conversion and had few problems up to now. I noticed coolant dripping from the overflow bottle on a stops and did some tests. The radiator hold pressure and the tubes and vanes clean. There is no increase in oil level or appearance of ...

Nothing wrong with the splines. Took 10mm off long side, 5 mm off short side.

I just did the same - gone is the LockRite and all those noises. Once the locker was fitted though I had to remove 10 mm from each axle before they would snug up. Anyone else have that happen?

The main trouble is that the chassis is so thin and even the ARB attachment points need beefing up. To get it right you need to use 12 mm bolts through tubes through the chassis. It usually means adding 5 mm plates so you can extend forward to give you some room to bolt on a hook. If you put a hook ...

Dont forget to disconnect the fuel hose clamp and the hose protector shield. I think that shield is pop riveted between the body and chassis. When I lifted mine I thought I had everything loose but the pop rivet letting go under the body weight sounded like a 303 going off and I nearly sh*t myself.

I've heard a few of the guys running Mudzillas in Wellington are "upgrading" to Creepy Crawlies".

Check the switch on the front of the T-case.

Mine was a 12 month rebuild after a roll and a half. There were plenty of other things to do but I didn't want a body lift and had 31*10*15 muds. I have 2 inch shackle lift but the rest is standard. I removed the flares (good move) to reveal all the rust and it was easier to cut it all away and do ...

Have a look at this.
http://www.izook.com/tech/samurai/body/ ... lwells.htm
I've done one. Do teh rear first. The front is a bit tricky. make sure you have good tin snips, a MIG welder and a big hammer.

I swapped the fill plugs from a 410. They have a male rather than that female that required punching to get out.