Outer Limits 4x4 Board

I've sort of given up on the idea, looks like the cheap tyres wold be negated by expensive rims so would just end up pricey.

18" muds would quite be the fashion statement

Dynamic only go up to 17" :cry:

The silverline ones look alright but getting wheels from the UK sounds spendy!
http://www.silverline4x4.co.uk/pics/wheels/1601.jpg
I might ask for a price just to scare myself...

[edit] 155 pounds each!

my cunning plan to save some $ on tyres might be unwinding ...

No I haven't gone bling...

but there are these cheap 35 x 12.5 x 18 tyres going - some guy wrote 18 instead of 15 and the order is here... they have a decent amount of sidewall and should be fine offroad

but are there any rims around (not chrome bling or spinners please...)

GQ is very rational choice but needs power - so you have to mod engines.

If you are going Rover, you have to mod drivetrains etc to handle big tyres

Either way - the advice is simple: Buy an already modified truck it will save you huge amounts of money!

Get some long LRA springs http://www.lrautomotive.com.au/54.html - and retain the rear springs so it's not so tippy

if you drive fast you'll need a heavier spring than if you take it easy - so think it through. it's easy to get rangies to articulate the rear but less easy to get a balanced rig

I'd ...

I put some EBC ones on the 90 - slotted/vented front, slotted rear. Improved the braking from poor to good, but then I found a faulty brake booster, replaced that which made the braking very very good.
Moral of the story, check your brakes are 100% first...

I though the bonnet was to fit the 2.4 diesel from the transit van that is going into it. Nothing about a V8. Sadly. I'd have the TDv8 from the new rangie - apart from it needing a whole new drivetrain!

I've put the LRA flares on the missus 4 door Disco, the rear doors are the tricky ones, the first door took me forever - just keep trial fitting the flare and you'll get there. A finish sort of cutter - like a 2" cutting wheel helps, the instructions are almost confusing at times. I've got some ...

maybe some Disco II flares?

http://www.discoweb.org/fenderflares/index.htm

try searching first

http://carl.outerlimits4x4.com/viewtopi ... covery+buy

A Disco on 35's will break the standard drivetrain if driven hard

A lot of the parts are interchangeable with Rangies - some slight differences but pretty much the same.

have fun

pretty much. some of the plastic doofahs may snap. I got a bag of them from the local landy spares shop and it makes the job easy.

I have one. it's good.no more mud filled drums

A guy over here that installs Nissan diesels had problems with them killing landrover gearboxes. It turned out to be vibration from the big wobbly diesel oscillating around. They use v12 jag engine mounts and it helps stop them moving around so much.

http://www.rhel.co.uk/tomcattech/dizzy.htm

Did mine gray (was blue) looks 10 years younger.

http://www.d-90.com/mod/hood.html

Welcome to the ARB Warn Outback 4x4 Challenge website

The 2006 ARB Warn Outback 4x4 Challenge is no longer accepting competitor entries.

We have reached our maximum capacity for the event.

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I'm sure competitors would ...

They only went to the 4.6 motors recently, older ones are 2.1 or 2.5 I think. I _vaguely_ recall that they change to a 5 pin plug was about the same time... there is a definitove post on it somewhere...

Bush65 wrote:There is a place in QLD modifying truck starter motors that some of the winch challenge competitors are using. These produce big power from what I have heard.

That makes sense - look for max torque in a 12v world and a truck starter would be hardto beat. Hmm, theres a truck across the road...

b) the same but with one of those 7.8hp superduty motors


Hi CT,
more info on these motors?
Any website to give them a look,specs,manufacturers...?

TIA.

http://www.traxion.co.nz/product/details.asp?pid=16
click on the product specs link for a .pdf
this is the local agent, don't know the ...

I have a Warn 8274 older 3 pin model 12v I think is 2.5 hp motor. Works OK but not under intense use. I want to get it working a lot better... should I:

a) upgrade the motor to one off a warn XP (6 hp?) run some strengthening rods, add some seals and air cool it - and upgrade the cables
b) the same ...

I've run 255's on a 90 on standard rims, standard alloys and also on some whitespokes with some more offset. This was with 2" spring lift but should be a gerneral guide.
- on the standard rims and alloys they touch the rear tub (taller) and I had to extend the bumpstops. They also hit the radius ...

if you want to use the front off your old motor you will need a crank to turn the dissie - the 4.6 doesn't have this but you can swap in one from a 3.9 so it's a bit of a PITA but the end result is great.
The distributor is driven from the camshaft.
All you need is a spacer on the front of the ...

if you want to use the front off your old motor you will need a crank to turn the dissie - the 4.6 doesn't have this but you can swap in one from a 3.9 so it's a bit of a PITA but the end result is great.

I've got one...

4.6, LT85, Simexes

Running a 4.6 converted to carbies and an LT85 - best upgrade I have done - heaps of torque, great upgrade, wtf is fuel economy?

Some decent rock sliders help strengthen the body up quite noticeably

mate of mine tows his racecar round on a full trailer behind a diesel disco. he loves it - slow as a slug, but economical and reliable - which leaves valuable resources free for the spendy bits for the racecar.

swamp wrote: I thought the ideal setup would be that the front axle hits the bumpstop at about the same as the rear wheel leaves the ground.

I think you need a bit heavier in the front - when you drive into things the front does most of the work.

Try http://www.lrautomotive.com.au/100.html for a local opinion

I have some Rovertym cranked arms and a double cardon driveshaft and stilll have some driveline vibration. Haven't ruled out a worn transfer case though. Lots of people seem to use cranked arms without problems.