Outer Limits 4x4 Board

In reality it is most likely to be a dried out o-ring and a lack of oil in the system. You should probably buy a new set of o-rings for it and some oil, replace them all and lube them with the oil then get it gassed and get them to but a heap of oil in the system. The oil will help seal up little ...

Just reading their site now and came across this ... " This professional product is not something you can buy at a local auto parts store, or take home for a simple installation. On the other hand, a mechanically inclined person could use the Super Stop Leak Plus if they are familiar with A/C repair ...

Mine looked spot on also but still had the problem, I had the master cylinder rebuild for no good reason chasing the problem

Regards
Tom

Does you pump run continuously or cycle on and off ? If it doesn't run all the time then it is most likely a pad issue, what pads are you running ? I have had that exact problem with bendix pads, go out and do 15 stops from 60 to 5 km/h and see if your braking performance improves as more and more ...

replace the points ignition with an electronic one like a crane fireball or something similar,

destroying points and ignition stuff ups were the biggest problem with my 76 2 Door

Tom

No name calling thanks - keep it civil

Tom

it is pretty easy to get to I didn't need to take the top off - if you remove the plenium you will need to take the throttle cable and kick down off - which is easy enough.

Tom

muddy is about right - except it is 80L

Tom

I would say so depending on Ks - under 200,000K it would be cheap over 200,000 then it would be at the high end

Tom

The rangie and the disco will virtually the same engine - ECUs etc should all be the same - Your disco obviously had a problem - they aren't all like that. I have a 1991 3.9v8 rangie and it is fine done 220,000k plenty out there with more ks on it - my motor is a little tired and I am looking at ...

v8 or diesel - big difference between the two ...

Tom

How did you confirm it had fuel and spark ?

Tom

into the air cleaner

Tom

how many ks ?

Have you changed the fuel pump in it ?

Have you sprayed aerostart to see if it fires ?

Tom

they should take 80L

and taken wear and tear and the age of the motor into account I would do your calculations on 20L/100K to be safe.

I think my freeway consumption in the 3.9 ZF with 245/75/16 MTRs is about 19 L/100K

Tom

numbnuts wrote:mate told me he's getting 12.5 lt/100km in his 4.2 td gu 2002 going to melb. from adelaide , i don't think so what do you think?

I could get that in P38 4.0 SE V8 Range Rover

That and his speedo might be out ?

Tom

I was wondering the other day if a series 2 disco back end is the same as the p38 ?

Tom

One thing I meant to say - does the fuel rail regulator have the vacuum hose plugged into the manifold or is it all perished and cracked, and, do the discos have the valve like the p38 on the fuel rail so you can check the fuel pressure ?

Tom

Muddy, You should have some fuel in the return line, especially at idle. Sounds like the pump (had similar probs with a RRC). Ideally you'd borrow another pump and see if that fixes it. DL his pump will be in the tank - lot of pain for a loaner but worth not spending the money especially when he ...

mine needed a fuel pump at nearly exactly 150,000km

But I don't know if that means you should rush out and get one, my symptoms were a lot more fuel pump like

Tom

you could disconnect both ends and blow it out with air.

How many ks has it done and when was the pump last replaced ?

Tom

Sent a Pm but will post it here too for the other blokes to see what they think. Gday mate, Righto reading through your reply maybe its the vacume advance. I did try yo suck on it but but by christ its hard, it hardly moves at all. In fact putting pressure on it witha pair of liers its hard to move ...

muddydigger wrote:still running like poo, changed plugs, leads and coil. Vacume advance seems to be ok.
Runs well untilit sees a hill.
Run well at idel and standing still and revs freely no chugging until it comes back down, slight chug( miss) .

Have you checked the timing and verified that TDC is actually TDC

Tom

timing and or vacuum advance ?

Tom

I know it is aparently hard on ECUs if you just kill the negative side of the battery - I don't know for sure - perhaps the coil would be a better option. I was thinking you could use a LPG saftey switch and wire it backwards you could use what is supposed to be the coil side to be live and then ...

Having owned an 81, 77, now a 92 Range Rover, I am biassed in liking the BW. I know Aquarangie disagrees but, I can climb a rock shelf just as far as any Disco in our club. A BW is like a LT230 that is locked, but with a little bit of slip to allow cornering, as long as it has fluid in the viscous ...

Cool hope that is the source of the problem, with the timing check that the balancer hasn't slipped and is causing it to be out

Tom

BUMP. I've mustered the effort to try calling again and I can't get through on any of the numbers listed on the website since the apparent relocation. This sucks. Any Haultech employee or owner or fanboy reading this? Please respond. Send me your details via PM and I will call them asap for you And ...

Had the radiator mucked out by a radiator place yet ?

Rad will be over 10yrs old and shagged full of rubbish out of our engine and blocking all the little capilaries (sp?)

It is a $70 - $100 job if you delivery the rad yourself

Tom

have you checked the ignition timing. if all is good check to see if the balancer has spun giving you an incorrect reading whilst checking the timing. How do I go about checking this???? You can use a vacuum gauge to see how the timing is or you can roll out plug 1 and then roll the engine around ...