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lifting a surf (need advice)

Tech Talk for Cruiser owners.

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Posts: 1958
Joined: Thu Sep 01, 2005 11:01 pm
Location: Nowra, NSW

lifting a surf (need advice)

Post by chunkz »

Okay
so at the moment
on my surf i have wound up torsion bars
2" coils on rear

coming in the mail
are
1" bj spacers
1" coil spacer
2" body lift

what do you people think of this site?
http://www.4wd1.com/4runner_surf.htm

so i need adjustable panhard rod $260
Image

some shocks, now i dont know which ones i need
2" or 4"
Rancho 9000X 9-position externally ride-adjustable shocks. $396 pair
Rancho RS5000 shocks $260 a pair

will i need new torsion bars? $535
Image

ummm
any other shops
cheaper or what not suggestions
cheers
Posts: 5256
Joined: Fri Jun 16, 2006 6:49 pm
Location: Melbourne

Post by Struth »

Interesting site.

I have about 75mm rear coil lift and haven't changed the panhard rod, maybe that's a bad thing :oops:

I have also had tough dog torsion bars recommended to me, haven't used them yet though.

What do you hope to gain with the ball joint spacers?

Cheers
Posts: 1958
Joined: Thu Sep 01, 2005 11:01 pm
Location: Nowra, NSW

Post by chunkz »

advice i wAs given from another site:
You will also need an adjustable panhard rod or drop panhard rod bracket to realign the rear axel as the suspension lift will push the diff to the drivers side because the std panhard rod is then too short.
It will be drivable anyway but will "crab" a little down the road.
Posts: 142
Joined: Wed Jan 19, 2005 2:13 pm

Post by MY92SURF »

Correct... you will need to do the panhard, and if you still have the original torsion bars in there, i would reccomend you replace them.

Also, when doing the torsion bars, make sure you have new bolts to use. The originals won't really go back in.... if they don't snap.


BJ spaces are good for that little bit more lift, but remember in QLD they're not legal... and i doubt you'll find a state where they are.
Posts: 1958
Joined: Thu Sep 01, 2005 11:01 pm
Location: Nowra, NSW

Post by chunkz »

MY92SURF wrote:Correct... you will need to do the panhard, and if you still have the original torsion bars in there, i would reccomend you replace them.

Also, when doing the torsion bars, make sure you have new bolts to use. The originals won't really go back in.... if they don't snap.


BJ spaces are good for that little bit more lift, but remember in QLD they're not legal... and i doubt you'll find a state where they are.
they will be in for show use only...
not for on the road ;) ;) ;) ;)
Posts: 549
Joined: Sat Jul 23, 2005 5:33 pm
Location: Sunshine Coast

Post by Frankenyota »

I have run the ball joint spacers in my 4runner for a couple of years now, with no problems. They give some more lift without the stiffness of winding up the torsin bars, more like stock handling.
I kept the standard bars as after market ones are thicker = stiffer, wouldn't replace them unless yours are shagged.

Matt
Posts: 167
Joined: Mon Jul 17, 2006 8:30 pm
Location: Northern Sydney

Post by rixrunner »

Frankenyota wrote:I have run the ball joint spacers in my 4runner for a couple of years now, with no problems. They give some more lift without the stiffness of winding up the torsin bars, more like stock handling.
I kept the standard bars as after market ones are thicker = stiffer, wouldn't replace them unless yours are shagged.

Matt
chunkz I recommend replacing the tortion bars. Just did mine along with the BJ spacers and the truck behaves much better. Pedders do a set exactly the same type of steel and diameter (26mm) as the 4WD1 bars but cheaper.

You do need to alter the panhard rod.... Struth your rear wheels will be running off center approx 20mm. If you have got the materials just cut and extend and weld your origonal. Works a treat.


Ricky
Try to keep at least one wheel on the ground at all times !!!!!! (unless you want to do a jump....... thats different)
Posts: 233
Joined: Tue Oct 11, 2005 7:35 am
Location: Bankstown

Post by Dingo »

Just a small safety tip if you replace the torsion bars yourself, put a block of timber between the bolt and the floor, that way if the bolt snaps you won’t end up with a neatly punched hole in the floor.

Be sure to get a camber adjustment and wheel alignment done as soon as you do the lift, it changes dramaticlly.

Depending on what you have hanging over the front end, steel bar, winch, dual batteries ect will decide if you need heavier torsion bars.
I done my suspension first without doing the torsion bars and found the originals to be lacking, too bouncy.
So I then changed to tough dog torsion bars, medium duty, know very happy, :D even after 2 years
Have got a steel bar + winch + dual batteries.
If you are doing all the fitting leave the bars go till you get all the other stuff done then see how it feels and go from there.
If you get a company to do it they will tell you to do it then and try to give you a good price to fit eveything at once but if you don't do the bars then it will cost more to do it later. :bad-words:

BJ spacers either allow you to go up an extra inch or so or not having to wind up the bars so much if you are only doing a 2â€
95 Surf 3.0l Turbo 2"lift, ARB bar+winch+Rear Locker
[url=http://rag4x4.hyperboards.com][i][size=134]R.A.G 4x4(Ruff~As~Gutts)[/size][/i][/url]
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