Okay
so at the moment
on my surf i have wound up torsion bars
2" coils on rear
coming in the mail
are
1" bj spacers
1" coil spacer
2" body lift
what do you people think of this site?
http://www.4wd1.com/4runner_surf.htm
so i need adjustable panhard rod $260
some shocks, now i dont know which ones i need
2" or 4"
Rancho 9000X 9-position externally ride-adjustable shocks. $396 pair
Rancho RS5000 shocks $260 a pair
will i need new torsion bars? $535
ummm
any other shops
cheaper or what not suggestions
cheers
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lifting a surf (need advice)
Moderators: toaddog, Elmo, DUDELUX
advice i wAs given from another site:
You will also need an adjustable panhard rod or drop panhard rod bracket to realign the rear axel as the suspension lift will push the diff to the drivers side because the std panhard rod is then too short.
It will be drivable anyway but will "crab" a little down the road.
Correct... you will need to do the panhard, and if you still have the original torsion bars in there, i would reccomend you replace them.
Also, when doing the torsion bars, make sure you have new bolts to use. The originals won't really go back in.... if they don't snap.
BJ spaces are good for that little bit more lift, but remember in QLD they're not legal... and i doubt you'll find a state where they are.
Also, when doing the torsion bars, make sure you have new bolts to use. The originals won't really go back in.... if they don't snap.
BJ spaces are good for that little bit more lift, but remember in QLD they're not legal... and i doubt you'll find a state where they are.
they will be in for show use only...MY92SURF wrote:Correct... you will need to do the panhard, and if you still have the original torsion bars in there, i would reccomend you replace them.
Also, when doing the torsion bars, make sure you have new bolts to use. The originals won't really go back in.... if they don't snap.
BJ spaces are good for that little bit more lift, but remember in QLD they're not legal... and i doubt you'll find a state where they are.
not for on the road
I have run the ball joint spacers in my 4runner for a couple of years now, with no problems. They give some more lift without the stiffness of winding up the torsin bars, more like stock handling.
I kept the standard bars as after market ones are thicker = stiffer, wouldn't replace them unless yours are shagged.
Matt
I kept the standard bars as after market ones are thicker = stiffer, wouldn't replace them unless yours are shagged.
Matt
chunkz I recommend replacing the tortion bars. Just did mine along with the BJ spacers and the truck behaves much better. Pedders do a set exactly the same type of steel and diameter (26mm) as the 4WD1 bars but cheaper.Frankenyota wrote:I have run the ball joint spacers in my 4runner for a couple of years now, with no problems. They give some more lift without the stiffness of winding up the torsin bars, more like stock handling.
I kept the standard bars as after market ones are thicker = stiffer, wouldn't replace them unless yours are shagged.
Matt
You do need to alter the panhard rod.... Struth your rear wheels will be running off center approx 20mm. If you have got the materials just cut and extend and weld your origonal. Works a treat.
Ricky
Try to keep at least one wheel on the ground at all times !!!!!! (unless you want to do a jump....... thats different)
Just a small safety tip if you replace the torsion bars yourself, put a block of timber between the bolt and the floor, that way if the bolt snaps you won’t end up with a neatly punched hole in the floor.
Be sure to get a camber adjustment and wheel alignment done as soon as you do the lift, it changes dramaticlly.
Depending on what you have hanging over the front end, steel bar, winch, dual batteries ect will decide if you need heavier torsion bars.
I done my suspension first without doing the torsion bars and found the originals to be lacking, too bouncy.
So I then changed to tough dog torsion bars, medium duty, know very happy, even after 2 years
Have got a steel bar + winch + dual batteries.
If you are doing all the fitting leave the bars go till you get all the other stuff done then see how it feels and go from there.
If you get a company to do it they will tell you to do it then and try to give you a good price to fit eveything at once but if you don't do the bars then it will cost more to do it later.
BJ spacers either allow you to go up an extra inch or so or not having to wind up the bars so much if you are only doing a 2â€
Be sure to get a camber adjustment and wheel alignment done as soon as you do the lift, it changes dramaticlly.
Depending on what you have hanging over the front end, steel bar, winch, dual batteries ect will decide if you need heavier torsion bars.
I done my suspension first without doing the torsion bars and found the originals to be lacking, too bouncy.
So I then changed to tough dog torsion bars, medium duty, know very happy, even after 2 years
Have got a steel bar + winch + dual batteries.
If you are doing all the fitting leave the bars go till you get all the other stuff done then see how it feels and go from there.
If you get a company to do it they will tell you to do it then and try to give you a good price to fit eveything at once but if you don't do the bars then it will cost more to do it later.
BJ spacers either allow you to go up an extra inch or so or not having to wind up the bars so much if you are only doing a 2â€
95 Surf 3.0l Turbo 2"lift, ARB bar+winch+Rear Locker
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[url=http://rag4x4.hyperboards.com][i][size=134]R.A.G 4x4(Ruff~As~Gutts)[/size][/i][/url]
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