Outer Limits 4x4 Board

these are the inner steel gaurds to fit a 78 rr u have? what are u willing to let them go for and as a set or single sides? throw me a figure either way. i've got some rear parts to get rid of if your interested in trade

got all the cab cut down and near ready to start building but still coming across alot of really bad rust in sills / bottom of pillars and drivers inner gaurd so now my deadline off a month is shot. don't suppose anyone has a good inner gaurd floating around they'd like to part with?

ok spoke to an engineer, turns out i can dock off the chassis as nothing mounts to that area other than the rear of cab and tank which will be getting moved / removed, but the only section in his book about making a ute is on panel van to ute if there is a standard variant and states sedan/wagon is ...

my 78 2 door rangie already has roof and rear pillars cut off like a style side with no rear cab wall, was engineered and rego'd in nsw but now in qld and lookin to take the rest of the back off, throw in a back wall, add comp style tray with batterys and tank tucked under it, the part im stuck on ...

half inch copper pipe about 40mm long and use it as a joiner in the feed and return on the engine bay side of fire wall all done, till next winter!

yeah mine was running a GU pump and 18 pound, till it called it quits and melted and cracked everything including block and head on saturday! a mate that worked at a dyno shop was tell me tyres dont affect the reading the computer works it all out?

I replaced steering box not that long ago, was told they go for around $500 reco'ed exchange so i bought a second hand unit $150. which now leaks from seal on out put! I'm going to just drop pitman arm and replace it with unit in car.

As for the 3.5, I'd do the upgrade to the 3.9 asap or when it ...

I never knew they wanted that much for them! Go petrol. I recently got hold of a 3.9L complete for $500, gave it a rebuild $250, good as new, plus they make more noise!

How do you rebuild a 3.9 for $250??
Or was that just new gaskets???

Heads skimmed = $80
Stem seals = $20
Head Gaskets = $35 ...

Thats it. If you crank arms not only do you weaken them due to heat stress, but also, what is more likely to bend or fracture, a straight arm or one that you've already started the bend and put a stress point in? Dont get me wrong it will bodge up the handling, as long as you feed it uni's, next ...

DL wrote:Hi,

I slotted mine and welded the slots back to holes. Easy. Looks very stock which was important to me.

BTW it is the best mod you can do to lifted RRC.

cheers, DL

Thanks
I run a washer to cover the slot and spread more load.
you dont realise how bad they handle till you correct it.

RangingRover i think you may be thinking of stub axle not swivel? Either way Im only offering to help you guys, im not a sales man, It does work, I've got it all set up if you want them done properly and cheaply, let me know. If not LRA does them for $180 a side.

I never knew they wanted that much for them! Go petrol. I recently got hold of a 3.9L complete for $500, gave it a rebuild $250, good as new, plus they make more noise!

The amount of rotation ranges but is only around 5mm. so the holes can't be redrilled. As for movement, it is only braking force which will try to turn them back. I've previously run 35's on a rangie with slotted swivels and they never moved, did break diffs. They dont have to be removed to replace ...

Hey guys, the other day we made a jig up to slot out my swivels to return standard steering angles. Rather then bending arms or buying after market arms, simply slot the mounting holes in a mill. You tell me how big your lift is and i'll slot them to suit. All done in mates fully equiped machine ...

ive also seen rangie classic rear c pillar to cab vents used at the rear sides of the bonnet. I'm running twin davis craig 12in fans and a booster pump, standard pump, no thermostat. works great till you get a cold morning and you cant get the heater warm, you cant win!

you may have just knocked of or broken a wire to the sender. run a continuity tester from wiring at the tank to the wiring at the gauge to make sure its in tact first. don't take my word for it but i think full tank is nearly dead short to earth. I tried it on mates and it made the gauge jump!

hey guys, i to have found this nut loose a number of times and have found that it is due to over travelling the ball joint it has simply pulled the thread threw the nut.

go to local steel suplier, get 40mm solid bar cut to 50mm long put in drill press or con a mate to let you use his, drill holes. unbolt all mounts, including cab safety bolts under boot and seat, and all steering column joints, open a door put hi-lift under sill and lift up one side of cab making ...

My long travel kit works very well. it uses relocation cones to relocate the springs as they return to the mounts. if you tie the springs in you are limiting travel. I made a set of top cones for my rangie with which i also run inch and a half coil spacers. springs pull away about two inches. Let me ...

Ive bought pretty much everything off this guy. great prices and service.
MJK Discovery auto parts
527 Kalang rd
Bellingen, NSW, 2454

Contact Murray
0412625706
0266552443

hey guys. i broke my front spider gears and shaft the other day leaving me two wheel driving in the mud. i think i will be able to reuse everything else. im after a bit of advice i regards to (a) do i replace parts and wait for them to break again, or (b) go for a reasonably priced auto locking ...

does the numbers eight four four three hand engraved on the front diff gears mean anything to anyone? it's not a locking centre.

I'm half way threw a cut down on my rangie. I'm going for an open pick-up. Need help with a few engineering questions, can i mount rear seat belts on the rear diagonals, can i rivet the roof to the main hoop? Thanks

I'm trying to find out where i can get some seamless cage tube from. Any help would be great

I'm doing my own body lift. Can i get away with welding heavy wall tube to the chassis and the washer to the top or does it have to be solid? Can i use normal mild steel tube for my cage? Where the rear diagonal from main hoop passes back seat will it be too close to pass engineers report.

I found out the hard way that spherical joints don't have the amount of swivell needed to pull off big flex. What do you guys think of either a patrol bush at diff end and high mis-alignment joint in the front, or patrol bushes in both ends as they apparently flex real well

A comp usual builder has told to try using patrol bushes in each end of rangie trailing arms, he recons they flex as good as high ma joints. They arms are the same length and all but the eyes are set on an angle. What do you guys think. I'm also still working on a swivelling set

So all they Are is a set of bent arms? How much travel have you got? I'm guessing, with the five inch lift then you should be able to set up for eight inches each way. And you still run standard bushes.

I think scorpion uses rose joints? Rose joints are unsealed and not hardened. Greasebale ones are around 150 to 200, spherical joints are hardened and Sealed and greaseable and $20 to replace, and much easier to get passed for those reasons

$700 mate thats a joke. How do they work that out. I can tell you this much, i will absolutely kill that price. I'm looking at around 400 or 500 max depending on how proper and legal i do it. But don't hold me to it.