Outer Limits 4x4 Board

31zook wrote:If you have another set of spider gears for the rear diff you can weld them up and it will be take-out-able like a minispool. Thats my cheap advice for today

x2 why both buying a spool if you can just weld her up

i think its worth it. i wouldnt be worryed about braking the locker i would more be worryed about the relabilt of it as in to lock and unlock, leaks ect.

if it goes ahead i will be interested to put one in the front and get the real deal in the rear.

let me know if its going to happen

i would be keen as my ebay compressor died not long ago. got any more info on them? what would the aprox amp draw be i am am looking to hard wire it in

mr green wrote:i have vented vit brakes and the snake racing knuckle. caliper is not touching anything it shouldn't

LWB ones? thanks

anyone know if you can use vit brakes with the snake racing knuckle. im looking to replace my dodgy hi steer that i ground out a bit to fit the vit brakes. so can it be done? snake racing knuckles and use vit brake?

Pressure clean then a grinder or one of the cleaning type disks or wheels is the safest way........ or maybe even sand blasting for steel.
Aluminium is more difficult......Pessure clean , hot soapy water , or pure alcohol and a stainless steel wire brush......thats how I do it

for most ...

its been fine so far

the thread is here
http://www.auszookers.com/index.php?name=Forums&file=viewtopic&t=5532


but for lazy ass people

(yes i did use too many grease nipples)

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y6/brendan_454/IMG_0277.jpg

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y6/brendan_454/IMG_0278.jpg

http://i2 ...

In my personal, unqualified, non professional opinion, I feel you are better off having stiffer springs in the rear and softer ones up front.
Mine flexes well enough in the rear anyway, but coupled with the softer front it goes pretty well.
The advantage is no axle wrap to speak of.
The ...

thehanko wrote:
And i gotta say to pull the welder out for that little job is so easy when its so light and small.

yup thats also why i rather use MMA.

with mig its tooo much to lug out the front if i want to weld on my car

i never bother to set mine i just put them on and when they stop get the gauge out and deflate the rest to whatever

ive got a unimig panther 172. i think it was $900bucks. im not realy a fan of mig welding but i did use it weld on my trac bar mounts on my diff only because i couldnt get a MMA electrode in there.
all my bar work is TIG welded only because i like to tig welded and i want to get good at it

is that on the same street as pick and payless? Dont matter they dont do steel rims. Anyway rang jmac gana see him this arvo

just go back from fx. Basicly he said $120 to $150 depending on how hard it is ect. He said if its easy he can sandblast them and prime then at no cost or get them powdercoated black at $40 a rim. He recons i can probably get 4inchs out of them :twisted: but im not afta that extream.just want 2 or 2 ...

im at tafe today so might go cheak them out see what they can do

Seems jmac does eveything. I've had my gear at his shop before. I would prefer to get them done at a place who just do wheel modification/repairs as I will be driving on theses things at 100kmh

im in the blacktown area and would like to get my rims fliped or somthing so i can get more a bigger offset.

anyone know of a place that can do them?

thanks

just upgrade the alt to a falcon one

i all my oils are

T-case oil- castrol VMX 80wt. 1L

Gearbox oil- castrol VMX 80wt. 1.3L

Front Diff oil- castrol EPX 80-90wt. 1.5L

Rear Diff oil- Penrite LIMSLIP 85-140 1.5L (i got a lockright)

also in the Tcase and diff i put in some nulon oil addative will be doing the same for the gearbox when ...

love_mud wrote:

lump_a_charcoal wrote:Reckon it is a good idea to leave the stock rubber mounts in, like a fuse, to save something else tearing out?

Not really .. why leave a weak link ?

to save diffs, axels, CV, UNIs. would you rather replace a rubber or an axel?

might as well add this. was reading street machine mag the other day. 1700hp twin turbo commodore ute running a machanic fuel pump

total usless info right there

where about does it crack? might have to look at my engine

m10 metric fine basicly

meh. i bough them. hope they work or i will soo pissed off

FOUND THEM

http://www.suzistore.com.au/shopexd.asp?id=1355

$55 :shock:

If you can get trade price at Repco you should be able to get the 45221 kit for about half that.

i cant. im not a machanic. are you able to get trade price? maybe you could get them send them my way. should only cost ...

FOUND THEM

http://www.suzistore.com.au/shopexd.asp?id=1355

$55

for future reference. where are you getting this info as to what model car they came off?

STIKA wrote:Brendan, if you can organise them locally I can pick them up for you.

im in sydney

edit- i found more park numbers that would suit my application. anyone know what car they are off

45221
47293
47064

CJ7, CJ8
1973-85 4cyl
R Spring - eye front 47065

Comes as a set of 4 bushes with 2 crush tubes: 19mm OD, 14.3mm ID and 76mm in length.

The only problem left is having to come to terms with the fact you're using jeep parts. :finger:

do you know where i am able to get some of these bushes online ...

RAY185 wrote:CJ7, CJ8
1973-85 4cyl
R Spring - eye front 47065

Comes as a set of 4 bushes with 2 crush tubes: 19mm OD, 14.3mm ID and 76mm in length.

The only problem left is having to come to terms with the fact you're using jeep parts.

my insurace covers fires