Outer Limits 4x4 Board

I have seen a rear diff for sale and the guy says it is from an NL petrol manual, but also says it is 4.875. I think mine is 4.636. He is also selling a tailshaft which has a coupling in it, but mine doesn't, so I thought it may be from an NH or maybe the diesel.

Anyone know?

I have been considering this for a while too. Can the thermo switch be connected to the top housing instead where there sould be a point for it?

Also, this would eliminate all the noise from the stock fan as well shouldn't it? That's the noisiest part of the motor!

I had this problem a year ago. I had the tailshaft balanced and it is now about 90% right. The extension housing on the TC is about $300 and is not stocked in OZ. I had the clearance on the bush checked and it was within tolerance apparently. I also changed the uni joint as it was binding at one ...

I believe ADR's stipulate that the lights have to be seen from a certain angle. The spare wheel blocks the view so we are left with the bumper lights only. You will notice that the NS has moved the wheel to the centre and now has the top ones only. I fitted stop/tail combination in there and they ...

check for service history.

And when you go back, get there when they open and have him start it cold and listen for valve noise (ticking)

With those k's you probably won'y get a warranty. If that is the case, buy privately and save yourself some money. Be prepared to travel here, there and everywhere to find the right one too. This is plenty of rubbish out there. Don't be in too much of a rush to wait for the right one. Privately that ...

Hi Goona The oil leak is probably the plates on the back of the cam covers they have o-rings and is very common and an easy fix. The hand throttle, you pull it out and turn it to lock it out. And the window problem either needs just a bit of lube in the runner or a new regulator which is about $90 ...

There was a full set of original ones on Ebay a couple of days ago, rear as well as both front guards I think. Have a look.

glenn_c, you list rear swaybar disconnects in your sig. Were they custom or where did you get them?

Have been wanting to do something for a while and don't want to just take it off and lose on-road handling.

Would like to know your thoughts.

Cheers.
Col

Dexter,

Here is the link where I read the outputs - 180.2kw & 343Nm.

http://english.auto.vl.ru/catalog/mitsu ... 8_2/17462/

I have just read it was the DOHC GDI, but our DOHC only produced 153kw? What is the Direct Injection? Anyone know?

I have been reading the specs on the 3.5 NL as released in Japan and it lists the power output as 180kw. I assume that there would just be a tuning difference to explain the difference. (maybe due to our fuel) Just the ECU? If this is the case, could Oz Pajeros be upgraded? Has anyone looked into it ...

What model are we talking? On the NL there are two screws under the binnacle in front of the steering wheel and one on top closer to the windscreen under a cover. Remove these and pull it of after un plugging cables. Then there are 3? I think screws to get the instruments out and of course the plugs ...

NM pajeros are notorious for a "rough ride" particularly low speed stuff.

Every road test I have read on those models complained about it. More car-like handling at the expense of ride quality. A friend's NM Exceed is dreadful.

Some new gear will make a huge difference.

Thanks alot for all your replies guys. More info. Tick/Rattle only occurs over bumps in the road, that is, on a smooth road it is silent. Travelling fast or slow makes no difference. So it is defintely a rattle, not electrical or anything like that. Sounds like a loose screw sitting on a metal plate ...

The speedo in my model is electronic, so no cable noise.

It is hard to explain the sort of noise it is, but it is killing me. It's a real tinny, high pitched type ticking sound. I have to get rid of it.

Thanks for the replies.

My NL has a ticking type rattle up high behind the instrument cluster. I had a rattle like this before with the glovebox frame area that turned out to be flex of a bracket, just bent it out of shape and the rattle was gone. I have taken the cluster out, but there is no access through the back. Does ...

Off topic, but has anyone heard of a 3.2 DID put into a Series 2?

The guard I think you are talking about fits to the T/C, not the tailshaft so changing the tailshaft will do nothing for you. The guard is just a tight fit on the rear extension housing of the T/C. Put it in place, put a piece of board on the back and tap into place with a hammer. The T/C filler is ...

Hey Hudson,

Are they a standard GQ spring or HD? I thought the HD might be a bit stiff for a Paj. And are they standard height?

Did you just crank the front end to make up the difference? And do you find this effects the front end off road?

Cheers,
Col.

Yeah mate, I had a 32/36 on my first Sigma, and with a mild cam the thing was great.

Then again, I also had one with twin 48 side draughts and 5 grand worth of motor work, now that was unf#@kn believable!

ompong,
Common opinion is that extractors don't really seem to gain much extra power from the paj. Full systems can give you some extra power, but it is usually at the expense of lower down torque - something the paj could do without, and certainly not great from an offroad point of view.

My Paj won't idle when the A/C is on.

Could this be the problem? If I turn the engine off and restart it is fine, and it doesn't always do it. And never without the A/c on.

I had the car at the exhaust place and he thinks it could be the cat, but in it's really early stages - it doesn't rattle when you thump it. There don't seem to be other exhaust leaks. Dexter, are you going to say gudgeon pin noise? The oil pressure sits about mid way on the guage, I think. It of ...

My NL with 120k on the clock has been making strange sounds. On a trailing throttle (in gear slowing with foot off the accelerator) there is like a hissing sound and also when you back off to change gear. In fact, even when you rev it in neutral and back off it makes a metallic hissing/rattle sound ...

They would have removed the tailshaft, which allows oil to run out of the transfer case. There are two reasons this is dripping now. Either they pinched the seal putting the tailshaft back in and it is leaking, or some oil dripped into the dust cover or cross member and will continue to drip until ...

I am replacing the front rotors and have decided to do the bearings while I'm at it.

I have read there are 3 bearings per wheel. Is this correct?

I have the hub off and only find two tapered needle bearings. Am I mad?

Hi Guys, I have an NL 3.5 and the clutch engages very high in the travel, and shudders terribly. I suppose it is up for replacement, but it has only done 117k's. Previous driver problem I think. I am not a gearbox expert, but I am handy enough with the tools. Is this something I could tackle myself ...

Does anyone know how free the fan should move by hand?

My fan seems to make a fair bit of noise when driving and I was wondering if this is normal.

Thanks in advance.

You would want to get service history as the diesel loves services. Even with good history, you could expect an injector pump service at those sort of k's - about $800-$900 I think. I looked at a couple of 2.8's and couldn't justify the lack of power, compared to the 3.5, considering it is a fairly ...

I am not completely sure, but I believe the airbag control module is behind the radio.
That is, if you remove the radio, it is underneath it near 4WD ECU.