Outer Limits 4x4 Board

righto, i would love to see one if anyone has done it

on a little bit different note, what do people do with long arms + GQ wagon + rock sliders, i had to cut the rear slider mount off to fit mine as the arms hit them on full compression, i love having long arms in the rear, excellent improvements on climbing etc, but to me strong sliders are a must ...

excellent thanks guys, thats what i was thinking, tilt the motor down

time has come to do the clutch in my GQ wagon, 4.2 diesel. when i purchased the car i noticed the firewall had been bashed in on each side beside the bellhousing, i have repaired the dints as they were right on the seam causing leaks through the floor. i have heard that belting the firewall in ...

thats a good price, cheaper than we used to buy it? where are you from? pm me if you want

i did an engagement gear in one of mine, though i will openly admit it was my fault, engaging the locker and then taking off too soon after at full throttle, in my defense i was in a position i was not willing to roll back in (or roll over for that matter) didnt break the gear, just beveled the edge ...

i used to do conversions on american trucks, we would fabricate a whole new heater, aircon and blend door assembly using the original parts and molded fibreglass parts, they work a treat. to make the original plug (the one you make the mold from) i layed some 400gsm fibreglass sheet out on a piece ...

not hiflowed, i dont really feel it "kick in" as such, by the whistle i mean you can hear it spinning at a decent speed at idle, then as soon as i take off i get boost without a big flat spot or what i consider to be lag. the power is a little slow coming on shifting into 3rd, but i just think thats ...

i dont find it laggy at all, compression might do that i spose, not sure, i find it great to drive, it whistles pretty hard as soon as you load it. to answer the other guy, as for the 2860, sure other turbos will make the same power, but its the torque curve that i care about. ball bearing all the ...

yer i guess most triangulated 4 links run on the inside of the frame, not an option for me as i have already spent the time putting it on the outside, i wanted it as factory looking as possible, just longer. im thinking an angled tube mount up and towards the wheel arch is gonna be the go, i was ...

i have set up a long arm kit on the rear of my gq wagon, its built to the same specs as the superior ones (around 950mm arms from memory) my car had sliders on it when i bought it, they were welded straight to the chassis, i have had to cut the rear mount out so it didnt foul the control arm on full ...

My GQ was tuned at Gympie as well, 250,000ks, stock pump just a rebuild (by gympie diesel & dyno) and a 28/60 on my own custom manifold and no intercooler. 135hp on 11 psi, with next to no smoke out the pipe, i was really surprised, its such a nice clean tune. pretty sure mine in a .86 rear housing ...

Stoive - 80 series pitman arm is flatter but wrong taper for 75 tie rod end. You will need a 80 series tie rod end to go with it which should thread into the 75 drag link. Like Dave (Twisty) did. http://www.4wdlinks.com.au/albums/FJ40/FJPS_015.sized.jpg http://www.4wdlinks.com.au/albums/FJ40/FJPS ...

mine uses the orig 60 series pitman arm, but with its new found flex, i am getting the RHS leaf spring hitting the bottom of the uni on the pitman.....

so is there a slightly flatter pitman i can use on there?

couple of our team mine on one of the winching stages http://img509.imageshack.us/img509/5320/picture047t.th.jpg rory's lux right after it got impaled on a log... in through the headlight, out through the firewall/bonnet http://img523.imageshack.us/img523/8537/picture035lzf.th.jpg and tamara's lux ...

For instance the small hill drag style event could have been run fri night and under lights for all teams to watch each other and spectators to enjoy. couldn't agree with that more, i would have loved to see the other teams and some of the really impressive looking/sounding rigs on a fast uphill ...

not a very spectator friendly event, considering the teams were having trouble finding the stages, if i had paid money to watch a 4wd competition and fronted up to logan challenge, having to scout through the bush and possibly wait hours between teams completing stages meanwhile missing other things ...

poor ignition timing will definately make an exhaust manif glow, but i dont know what options you have, stock computer? set up right?

yer team no. 12 is meant to be boondall backyard performance.
consists of my 40, rory's turbo 3rz hilux, and tamaras luxy

we're major noobs to all this (except tamara), im comin from sunny coast and not lookin foward to the cold.

cannot wait now tho, its gettin soo close

i have 70 series diffs in my 40 series cruiser, same width as original 40's i just get them for the better brakes (still drum) but with a handbrake on the diff. disc front my track width with 35x12.5x15's on neg 22 cruiser offset rims is 1740mm if that was too wide for the zukyou could run alot ...

all turbo's should have an internal restrictor at the bearing, so dont restrict the input i would definately be changing the fitting going into the sump, it's way too small. they normally have a 3/4 inch pipe welded into the sump for the drain. think of it as pouring a 2L coke bottle onto the ground ...

cheers, appreciated. thought it was that one, just unsure as my last engine was soo different

swaybars! if you removed them, or previous owner did, its pretty common

time to fuel up the 1H, can someone please describe to me or post a picture as to the location of the overall fuel mix screw on a 1HZ injector pump. its on a 93 model HZJ80 motor (in a 40 shorty :twisted: ) i know about all the exhaust temps and too much boost and fuel etc bla bla disclaimer ...

60 series, or 3rd gen hilux front brakes is the best, straight bolt on, vented discs and 4 piston calipers.
Just get the whole swivel housing and bolt it on

pretty sure its in the cruiser bible too

puffs of smoke on decel down a hill is a sure sign of valve oil
startup smoke can be as well, also if you let it idle for ages and it starts to smoke.

white/grey smoke on startup can be a weak cylender not firing the diesel hot enough at first

blue will be oil

black is overfuelling

what size tires? do it properly and lift the suspension i say

how does a 60 series front diff and an 80 series front diff measure up against each other?

can anyone do a hub to hub measurement for me if they have either laying around?
thanks heaps

above the rear spring hangers inside the chassis. prone spot

check all of your wheel speed sensors, if one of these is slightly damaged, it will throw an error code, also check out your battery and charging system, as low voltage at the module will also error code it