Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Also worth a look at the TPS on the IP also. Usually a replacement item is required if it hasnt been mucked around with. Take to auto trans guy to make sure its working ok or maybe someone smarter than I here knows the correct way to adjust them.

(EST)MahviaDeTyrk wrote:"We are very happy hear that you interested in our Air locker-RD78A and our prices should need $410.00 each one include the compressor together"

That would be $US not AU.

Yep. did in January and havent had a drama thus far.

I ground the extra tab off, done this conversion ages ago.

If your running factory freewheeling hubs the screw heads might ride up on the dog clutch thingie, i have avm's so its not a drama.

A year later i am still running the same secondhand VL viscous clutch that bolted straight up to the TD42, haven't overheated.

For those that missed it, the 4wdmonthly 2 grand Patrol -

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll ... &rd=1&rd=1

Wasn't listed a whole day before someone bought it.

Mine were pretty glazed up (nowhere as bad as yours sounds tho) when i got it and it took a couple of thou k's to get it back. I dont know nor care if the Castrol RX helped but thats what I run and its heaps better now.

I have heard of a few Safari's now that have needed the bore's touched up.

6cyl VL commodore fan hub is same as TD42 one, i got one on mine and it survived fine last summer.

Might also pay to check the bolt pattern from the block to the trans. From memory the 253's all were a holden pattern and 90% of all the aussie glides sold in holdens are chev pattern. There was one holden model (HK?) that had the glide upto a holden pattern block. Might be wrong but alarm bells ...

And if that doesnt work, off to the wreckers and get a VL Commodore hub cause its the same as a td42 one.

yep fan blower and resistor, wiper dwell, wipers and to make matters worse i am damn sure the wiring is thinner in the 24v patrol cause after i did mine some of the wiring esp to the headlights got warm to hold onto.

Read this http://www.nohsc.gov.au/PDF/Statistics/report_jacks.pdf and you'll never crawl under anything again without 10 stands supporting.

ditto.

If its my mates one that he sold (and i dont think there is another in the world), yep its a gq body on a mq chassis. Have a look at the dash cause they had to modify a mq one and put it in for some reason. It took a couple of years part time for a pro beater to do this remaking all the mounts etc ...

What dates you looking at being here?

I was running lubrimax sythetic and replaced it with the redline - made stuff all difference BUT replacing the original whatever was in it to the lubrimax made the world of difference.

Trying to get it to shift even better was an expensive exercise but somethings you just have to try.

Pretty sure there is 2 different looms - one 24v and another for 12v.

I have done a 24 to 12 conversion in a MQ and while it was successful the actual gauge of the wiring seemed less and hence things got warm like the wiring to the headlights.

Safari's are a good thing, i am happy with mine so far.

Yes, yes it is indeed as is the ashtray, lighter and the inclinometer/altitude gauges on the roof - all these bulbs were dead in mine. I havent pulled the heater controls out yet.

It is pretty straight forward, 5 screws for the surround and unplug the rear demister, washer/wiper and dimmer switches then 4 screws for the cluster and 3 plugs at the back of that.

The speed alarm is the round black thing with 2 wires attached to the back of the cluster.

You will find it behind the cluster, its pretty obvious. Take out the cluster and unscrew it. Make sure you put the screws back in by memory.

Job done, shouldnt take very long and yep it WAS as annoying as hell.

Sir Rollsalot wrote:Get a 24v - 12v trannie guru. I've got one in my safari shorty

Did you find the factory one in the passangers side kick panel? Rated at 10 amps but more like 5 i reckon.

Hobes wrote:I know insurance is considerably more expensive on these imports

Mine is around $500. Not excessive.

Yep thats right - cost me just over $100 last week to get compression and oil pressure tested. Easier and cheaper than doin it yourself.

Off to the wreckers and find a new or better turret would be a better option than fixin that. It would have to be a real cheapo truck factoring in a turret and labour and then you have to think that getting one that you dont have to do much to may be cheaper than fixing this. Get him to take pics of ...

<<<<<<< ahh pto's from japan are great but ugly as sin. Yeah stabi lock is the rear swaybar quasi disconnect. If you look in the passengers side kick panel there should be a 24v-12v converter courtesy of Nissan JP. It says it has a 10a output but its more like 5a. It powers the original radio but ...

RoldIT wrote:eMule if anyone is interested.

Yes, interested. Better if you could get it hosted somewhere.

There is an add-on for phpBB to do this, i have sorta looked into it before for our intranet work phpBB.

http://www.phpbbhacks.com/viewhack.php?id=152

Thats about as far as i got. Great idea as is the idea for seperate forums for tyres, shocks etc but thats covered somewhere else.

well i just ditched the oil that i had and put the redline in and it made sweet fa difference.

The oil i had was the Lubrimaxx transgear synthetic 75-90 at near $60 for 5 litres is alot better price wise.

When you speak of extractors do you mean exhaust manifolds? The bit that I know.. Yes, extractors are usually refered as aftermarket exhaust manifolds. Lost me in the GR / y60 thing. I thought the GR was the same as our GU? great, now i am confused, back to my MQ's and leave this to the experts.

Xcited wrote:You city boys would get a better price and you can not compare prices against at set of 16 or 15 as the options in 17 is very limited at the moment.

Probably a free trip to Brissie in what you save and a good on-road test on the way back?