Outer Limits 4x4 Board

so that is at full droop ( car is jacked up, wheels not touching the ground )
Then that will be the same as factory full droop .. if that is your ride height when the full weight of your vehicle is on the tyres ... they you have done something very wrong on your suspension install ...

No idea on the legality ... but a small one done properly shouldn't be an issue ... I recall ARB using small packers on coils to level out fitment.

Tiny wrote:

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You officially suck ...

Jealously is also a curse ..

The three speed is a TH180 .. basically the same box as you would find in a HZ holden auto .. most of the tech is the same and there will be alot more of it for a kingswood than a vitara so might be worth a look there.

Love the engine hoist come crane ...

The later model solid axle rear is definitely a 9.5 inch ( optional factory locker )

31 spline 33.5mm axle.

So I have 4 new ball joint's, a box of good quality grade 8 bolts, a set og GQ coils, 4 runner shocks on order.
I will be lifting my lil old NL a bit, sick of dragging its bum on the ground all the time.

Yeh its when its engaged, the tail shaft was out of phase by one spline but I corrected it, and bolts are tight coz I removed/reinstalled it. All vibrations started when I changed box (g52with chain drive) to a g52 with a gear drive.. Thought engine mounts but they look ok.. All the bolts holding ...

mechanical bead locks .. Are internal beadlocks (second air type ones) alright as a softcore option? ive seen ads for them but no idea if they go alright and how much they cost they are a "bit" better but still not a patch on mechanicals .. from what I have seen on truck I have been out with.

mechanical bead locks ..

are you hard and fast on a 15 .. plenty of options in a 16 .. not many I can think of in a 15 ... for a tall narrow tyre You can get a really fat swamper TSL SX, or loog at some AG tyres .. you can get them in a wide footprint .. or look at some of the rubber that sprint cars etc run they run some ...

Thanks for all the info guys Sound's like I'm gonna have to pull the housing off and give it a good go Might be a dumb question What if I just leave the crack it only leaks a little bit And its my comp car so its not like it being driven that much It cracked for a reason ( stress ) .. you reckon ...

Pull out, remove the centre, clean it ( oil ) out, drill stop holes, v notch the crack then weld it up .. only proper way to do it. If has cracked once without proper prep etc it will happen again , possibly worse.

Key anywhere, stealership to code the computer to allow it. unless I am mistaken it can only have two keys coded to it at any given time ( that is what the dealer told me anyway )

May be different with a newer model

which cradle. I have just gone and purchased a new to me winch for the paj .. I do not have a winch compatible bullbar ( alloy bar ) , and I dont have any real desire to go out and buy a steel one as adding a winch is enough weight over the front end at this point ( I have ordered some synthetic ...

Struth wrote:That's the same radius arms front and rear yes?

Has plenty of flex for me and looks pretty well balanced.
Thanks for the pic.

Cheers

Steve is all about balanced ...

The diffs will take whatever you can think up .. don't stress about them
Yep bullbar and some sill protection, important in a unibody.

http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/viewtopic ... 4&t=204855" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

another members swap ..

the magna motor is easy, no cam swaps needed . The casting for the dizzy is in all the heads and the bung from your pajero motor will fit it, the cam is toothed to take the dizzy drive. You will need to swap over pretty well all the bolt on's including swapping your oil pump etc. yep cam angle ...

I would bung a magna motor in there .. it is an easy swap.
they are way way cheaper than a paj donk.

I have done it in the garage at home with a hoist and hand tools.

haahah OMG thats awesome =) ah well, theres a reason they went belly up... age old saying "you get what you pay for". I can show you pics of two of my swampers that look similar actually one blew out totally and another is ready to .. so in my opinon the " you get what you pay for" is bullshit ...

http://www.jazproducts.com/poly_bucket_seats.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

bottom of the page ...

I have a set of cooper ST MAXX's so far they have been brilliant .. a few high country trips etc .. have not had any chipping great on the road not bad off road .. they are bloody heavy though for an AT with very thick sidewall ( load range E ) need the pressures dropped significantly to work well ...

I got my brakes sorted recently. Dual diaphram booster, standard 13/16 master cylinder. Got a shop to do it as I wanted a professional brake bleed. I fitted larger calipers with bigger pistons by the way. The shop found out that when ARB did my diff gears, they didn't adjust one of the rear drums ...

Section 2.13: Table LA1 does not apply to commercial (ADR Category NA and NB1) or four wheel drive off-road (ADR category MC) type vehicles such as commercial vans, light trucks, small buses, etc. for which there are no set recommended limits. http://www.infrastructure.gov.au/roads/vehicle ...

Nice work .. very clever reuse of parts.

Z()LTAN wrote:Sounds like you have an air leak at one of your connections or the anti drainback valve is leaking.

You can get a small check valve from an auto store and put it inline just before the inj pump. That will keep it primed

what he said... Cheapie low pressure pump in line = self priming system.

For winching up things on large angle the electric winch is best suited for this but for slogging though heavy mud (which is fairly normal in NZ and European comps) you are much better off with a hydraulic winch. Also a lot of Australian comps require you to be able to self recover from a roll over ...

I read somewhere - you can uses some stuff from a Commadore to make up ya own custom suspension. Can't remember which commadore though. edit... Statesman/Commodore IRS Cradle http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/VT-VX-VY-VZ-Commodore-IRS-Adjustable-Camber-Rear-End-reduces-tyre-wear-HSV-/150921122505?pt=AU ...

There are some very minor differences .. bearings are a bit bigger and the teeth on the pinion are a bit longer The housings are the same ... taken from the locktup site http://www.locktup4x4.com.au/blog/toyota-8-pinion-head-design-v6-4cyl/ It is a common belief in the aftermarket that there are two ...