Outer Limits 4x4 Board

evanstaniland wrote:7075. Depends on heim size. I run 2" with 1.25" heims and 1.75" with 7/8 heims

can you say that again please? i didn't hear you the first two times

I'd only personally weld lock the rear, and leave the front open. Manually faffing about with front hubs every obstacle would get old. The IFS 100 series i drive with an open front and locked rear goes all sorts of places. Like i said, the only niggling failure i had in an ARB was the cross pins ...

I think I got a little dumber just by reading this post. I've had arbs fir years and had only one failure due to an old design, and that was in a car that got beat on, I used to crash lock the diffs and they kept coming back for more. But please go ahead and buy a piece of shit Chinese locker so I ...

Hi all, I am looking at buying a welder for general fab work at home. I have done a bit of arch and mig welding as well as some oxy in the past. My question is are there any things that tig cant do that mig will. Also an i correct in thinking that you can weld ali weth a tig that can do ac. Cheers ...

Dave that's cool. I've seen it done on pootrols but I never even noticed it on yours.

Can i suggest that you not bother with all the effort of spacing the RA plates and try one or two other things first? On the red truck with a stock set of RA mounts i got FAR more front travel after i fitted the rear sway bar and modified the bushes on the RA arms. Just take a 1/2" drill bit to the ...

The guys at sidewinder ABR do a decent sized 12 volt compressor with tank. While it's a chinese made unit the guy who owns ABR is an electrical engineer and does some really nice stuff. I had his isolators in all my cars and they've worked flawlessly for years

If you do want to make life a little easier for if/when the current pump fails, spend some time and cut the shroud so you don't have to do half as much on the side of the road. shrouds exist for a very good reason, and hacking one up and ergo compromising the overall efficiency of the system for ...

I reckon I have an hour invested in that centre bearing. as said before the f250 rubber centre bearing is a good option at around $100-$120 off eBay, criddy from dragtec runs one in his buggy. There are so many options that all seam to work. Yeah, but i'm a bit of a clusterfuck in the garage and a ...

ahh yes. don't worry i had a bit of a moment as well. But there's more than that to think about. Consider your time..... Firstly while i'm mechanically minded and pretty good at imagining how i'd go about building something like what johnsy made up, i'd have to spend at least a few hours on the ...

Nice work Johnsy, that's a pretty good value solution

For what it's worth i'm using one from Wide open design.

Same idea but i'm guessing johnsy's was a lot cheaper

http://www.wideopendesign.com/Product/1 ... aring.aspx" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Is it only on dead cold starts on cold mornings or even after you've been driving a bit? Are we talking coughing and spluttering or actually revving up and down? Could be as simple as an air leak in intake plumbing that closes up after it warms up so it's drawing air at idle at greater than the ...

Glad to hear it. It takes the joy out of driving a bit when you have those sorts of issues in the back of your mind all the time

The air cant get through the rad if it cant get out the engine bay. This is absolutely critical. There MUST be a path for the air to escape and as easily as possible. I got rid of the plastic/rubber flaps that seal the inner wheel well to the chassis. The down side is that those flaps stop mud and ...

Milo. You're a wealth of knowledge. Got the new fan clutch and extra oil, fitting tomorrow with new thermostat and will definitely drill it out. Fitting it in the morning. Worked out a way to seal the TMIC to the bonnet. Pick up rubber on Monday. I'll give the lower glycol a go and see how that ...

Ha ha. this thing is so fucken ugly i LOVE it. Booty fab the shit outta that thing and go find a paddock and a dam to play around in. Just wear a helmet and put a roll cage in for chrissakes

A quick look on Toyodiy.com shows different part numbers between radiators for HZJ75, HZJ79 and HDJ79. I guess there is a difference so if anyone can shed some light on this that'd be great. The HDJ radiators have more rows of tubes across the radiator. Hamo Surface area trumps fin/row count/depth ...

A quick look on Toyodiy.com shows different part numbers between radiators for HZJ75, HZJ79 and HDJ79. I guess there is a difference so if anyone can shed some light on this that'd be great. . That's because they are all totally different trucks. 75 was a superseded model compared to 78/79 so even ...

Firstly i'd consider lowering your glycol content. Pure water has a far higher ability to transfer thermal energy than 50/50 so run the lowest concentration you are comfortable with. Don't worry about the anti-boil part as this is mostly taken care of by system pressure. Water at 14psi of pressure ...

when you reused the bush end, did you rotate it to stay away from the old weld? Just wondering if TIG might not like to go over old mig???? As much as i hate to admit it, i've used the TIG to wash over MIG welds that had some unsightly build up or lumpyness from tie-ins. It works ok in most ...

shame this isn't in a few months, i'll be doing runs up to queensland regularly once my car is finished and i'll be doing it in a 22t pantech. But if you're going to get someone to tow it down after driving up to get it then it's likely to be quite a few bob in fuel at the very minimum. Bugger of a ...

Mine is 66wms. With that and the nil offset rims I'm about 2070 outside to outside of tyre

There have been import FTE engines on sale for 8k of late, probably similar or less for a FT So a rebuilt(crate engine) should be about 5-6k on top of that realistically. I wouldn't pay 15k for a FT, a few grand less at least. I know the FT is a great engine and the FTE i have is even better, BUT ...

I found that under load the dogs could work their way free. So i made up a clevis for the end of the engagement lever that held it in place by pinning it to a matching tag on the bull bar. Was just an R clip to hold it in. I found that back angling the dogs just made it hard to engage/disengage them ...

Holy shit wendle! Where you been?

You sold the vintage beater didn't you?

Just thinking out loud here Is it worth maching the inside of the cut off ends and the tubes so they're perfectly round, then machining the sleeve so the OD is 1-2 thou oversize. Heat the axle tubes before inserting the sleeve so when it cools it's an interference fit. Just to help provide more ...

Moglux my comment about the C's was in response to the idea of flipping the housing and/or pressing out the tubes. It didn't occur to me that if you pressed out the tubes you could just re-rotate the castor angle to suit :oops: I hadn't thought about sleeving the cut tubes but. Good way to do it i ...

rock crawler, exactly my point, I would not weld it like that, so why should I except a professional job that is worse than I would except from myself in my backyard... There's "professional - being paid to do it" and "professional - craftsmen who do a job like money is no object". Rarely do the ...

Interesting.... If i made a tank it'd be TIG welded. Would i let that leave the shop? No Would i be happy with that tank if i made it myself? No BUT.. What was the tank worth? From a reputable shop or is it a cheaper tank? Is it warranted? Frankly i think the company has met it's fair obligations ...

Which then means custom length inner axles as well as cutting off the inner C's and rotating them (c*&t of a job) or buying a set of Reid inner c's for 500-600 bucks. Just make your car a passenger drop. I did it that way and frankly i'd do it again as it means you have your driveshaft on the ...