Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Standard bundeera radius arms will be maxed out on droop with only 50mm longer shocks because of the pin type body end mounts. Going a 4 inch lift will limit the amount of droop you have dramatically and traction will suffer. Of course if you're replacing the radius arms with something else ...

There isn't a dipstick to check the level. They have a bolt much like a manual transmission but there is a procedure to ensure the auto is at the correct temperature. Get a copy of the repair manual and have a look, it's been years since I've done it.

Yeah, I think they just rely on the tight fit to hold the arm in. My mates one did the same thing years ago and all he did was turn up some new plastic bushings at work. I don't think he could buy them from anywhere at the time. Maybe something off a different/newer model will work and be available.

I had the same thing happen to the interior light of my old Camry when I swapped it for an LED, that light is controlled by the computer so I just thought it was a bit of transistor leakage current. No idea why it would be doing that on a brake light circuit though, especially since it does it with ...

That's a lot of stretch, it must have done a lot of work. Good to hear it wasn't an issue swapping it over.

I've never seen a chain slip off, usually just jump a tooth when under load and you get a shudder & noise from the drivetrain. It's been ages since I replaced one and I can't remember if it can be done without removing the transfer. Either way it would be much easier to do the work on a bench, it ...

It will still have a centre diff lock, wouldn't be a 4wd without it. There should be a button there for it.

My old Bundera did. RJ70. But I've seen them in other models also.

91 Mav is spot on. Gas doesn't like lots of advance up high but needs more down low in the revs to perform optimally. Need to remap the ignition timing to do anything about it though. I don't think it's really worth the rooting around.

The later 1kz engines have fly-by-wire throttle and an intercooler. The earlier ones used a cable to the throttle body. The fuel pumps are a little different, fuel temp sender is in a different spot and the spill valve wiring is a bit different.

80 series front arms are different, they use an eye connection to the chassis while the bundy uses a pin like a rover. 80 series diff mounts are wider apart so wont just bolt in the front, rear is totally different (3 link vs 5 link). Could use hilux housing in the front with a few bits welded on it ...

Worked at a holden dealership for a while, the rodeo V6's weren't great. Very thirsty and some used oil as people have mentioned. Also be careful if you're cleaning the engine/doing water crossings. We managed to wreck an ECU by washing the motor (mounts on top of intake manifold). Rebuilt a couple ...

105 series is stronger. 10mm hub bolts, larger axles front and rear. Diffs are identical bar the side gears (to accommodate bigger axles). Not 100% sure on CV's, I think they are similar, except of course for axle size.

Part time 4wd kit doesn't effect fuel consumption unfortunately.

The only circlip on the counter shaft is at the front, it only acts on the front bearing. the rear is done with the nut only. As long as the fifth gear hub is pressed in all the way the only reason for excessive axial movement is wear to the thrust faces. Found a pic: http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/p ...

park brake light also comes on with low brake fluid (doesn't need to be much below full). But if the other lights are staying on also, it sounds like an electrical problem. Might be alternator overcharging, that sometimes causes dash lights to stay on. Check your charging voltage is no more than ...

They don't use circlips to hold 5th gear on the counter shaft, there's a nut on the rear of the shaft. The only things that will effect it are either wear on the thrust washer or face of the gear where it contacts the thrust washer.

My mates 80 series gets about 550km's from 90 litres while my 105 with vapour injection only gets about 260km's from the 70 litres. His goes a lot better than mine also, probably because the heads been shaved 3 times when it's came off to do the valves. 100 series were always heavier on fuel, extra ...

Just a quick note. I'd definitely run thicker oil than agri 424 in your transfer. Should be using an 80w-90 or similar.

Seen it done a few times, mostly landcruisers being upgraded above the 3500kg towball limit. They switch to a pintle hook setup and get engineered, new rating plate on the towbar so it's all official.

Try your local toyota dealer. Part numbers and descriptions below.

83100B BULB, COMBINATION METER, NO.1
83119‑36060 12V 3.0W GREEN CAP 4 $10.16
83119‑36080 12V 2.0W 1 $10.16
90981‑11018 12V 1.2W W/O SOCKET 7 $3.12
90981‑11035 14V 3.4W 4 $1.78
99132‑12034 12V 3.4W

Cracked heads and busted front diffs are the main things to look out for other than the normal maintenance and crash damage stuff. I think the dusting problem was fixed by then, that is the last year of the 1KZ hilux's so most issues were sorted.

I'm not sure about the lightforce vehicle spotties, but the handhelds have or use to have some pretty crap little wiring in them. We always used to replace the wiring and the switches, just aren't big enough and always overheated a few of them to the point of melting the insulation on the wires. I ...

91Mav wrote:Call Darren at Mental 4x4 a call on 0406060166. I was told he has them for $380.

Dammit, I already ordered them from Snake.

I'd try and call Locktup as I'm pretty sure Nitro started making 4.3's a couple of months ago. Already rang and was told nitro don't do a 4.3. 4.1 and 4.56 only. If that's the case get in touch with these guys. $230 + shipping. http://www.justdifferentials.com/index" onclick="window.open(this.href ...

I'm after a standard 4.3 ratio for the front of my FZJ105. Anyone know where I could find something cheap, best I could find was $850.

Also why do Locktup show the 80 and 100 series gears separately? I thought the ring and pinion are the same, just the side gears are different for the bigger axles.

R series bellhousing won't bolt to H sereis box. 80 series 1hz uses the H series box, should be easy to find and will bolt straight up you can also get the part time transfer with it if you want. Not sure on lever position but should be the same as 105 series.

5x14mm studs are stronger than 6x12mm studs.

On the 4 and 5 speeds shifting is controlled electronically, and has nothing to do with the throttle cable. The 4 speeds use a "kick down" cable which controls the line pressure. The line pressure won't affect shift timing on an ECT but it did something for mine, it may have unblocked or unjammed ...

Yep. My bad. Sorry mate.