Outer Limits 4x4 Board

it prob will bolt up however there is more of an issue with getting the 4.8L motor to run The 4.8L engines use an all in one ECU/TCU where as the older 4.5L use a ECU for the engine and a seperate TCU for the Auto box. betting the 4.8L engine to run without the TCU connected is apparently hard work ...

I had the front left and one go on my back in June this year. The internal and external bearing along with the races all broke up, took out the stub axle and the rotor hub, due to the amount of movement its also recked the slotted front rotor and the left front brake calliper mount as its bent it ...

I had a powertrax Lockright in the front of My GQ and while it lasted it was great for traction, only problem is they are yank designed and not for a heavy GQ patrol by for the rear diff's in Pathfinders. Unfortunatly i blew my powertrax up completly, so now i am going to install the 4WD Systems ...

There shouldn't be any noise as they aren't supposed to touch the High range only low range gears. In 2WD its high range so the low range should be doing nothing

the only hugs i have hurt of having a problem are the Auto hubs coming out. I have never had a manual free wheeling hubs ever coming out on me

steve patrol wrote:Im thinking of doing this... My Brake vac pump is on the GQ steering box? Is this the same as the GU?

the GU has the same setup the actual worm drive isn't that much bigger it will clear easy

What is comes to the GQ Death wobble there are 2 (or 3 if you really want to get technical) causes when you get the death wobbles try if you can (or have a passenger do it for you ) and look out the window at the front diff. If it looks like the whole diff is moving side to side then you will be ...

the 3.8l motor produces power too high in the RPM range so you will need to have too much RPM for any good 4WDing. If your looking for a 6cy swap go the Ford 6 from the XR6 or XR6 turbo. that will make it go and produce better power as its a Straight 6. Straights have a better torque figure down low.

i dont know about the chassis swap however the SD33Tengine will not bolt up to the TD/TB geaboxes you would have to get a bellhgousing converter made up for it.

the RPM sensor on the TD42 is a magnetic pickup not tooth driven. On the cam sprocket there are 6 holes that the sensor reads off, 6 pulses= 1RPM

i thought the same with my TB42 when i did a BL, it was actually dead rad, died at the same time. I did a total cooling system overhaul which included pump. clutch fan and blades, 3 core rad brand new and thermostat from Nissan. after all that even on the hottest day on stockton it never broke 1/4 ...

mine blew this line out in 2007 and i had one from Clutch and brake store made up, no extra nipple it makes no difference.

the carbi Dizzy has a Mechanical and Vaccum advance system. the EFI version has no Mechanical or Vaccum advance as this is all handled by the ECU, so you can put it in and wire it up bit the car will run like a bustest dog.

My old Mav's loved water didn't affect the dizzy one bit but i had it converted from Points to a Crane Cam Fireball Infra Red pickup installed. I had no breathers or water proofing done to the dizzy and i have a video of it going through deep water and not even flinching

most likely the engine has been replaced because its gone boom and the problem is the new ones aren't guranteed not to do the same thing.

the Auto box behind the ZD30 is the same as the one behind the TB45 and is similar in design to the older TB42 one. they are ok.

faulty switch. get a mechanical pressure guage and test the oil pressure that way, if its all working there, switch/sender is on the way out

if your currantly running plates to correct caster setting up the Xlink takes ait more. To install a X-Link with plates you first need to remove the plates and bolt the X-link onto the radius arms, you can then have to attach the pivot bolt to the diff to keep the caster angle correct, so this would ...

you can go up to 5deg caster correction with the X-Link, which will sort out up to 6-7" lift, only problem is where you will have to weld the pivot shaft, it will be aiming down towards the ground

hi i have a 91 gq td42 with standard single piston calipers .will the gu twin pistion ones bolt straight on ?? an also will the gu booster an master cylinger bolt on or do they need to be modiffied ??? cheers read up :? Since you have the single piston callipers you will need to invest in the Twin ...

So the GU brakes and master cylinder would be a good upgrade for my efi GQ? And the calipers will bolt straight to my mounts? Cheers Stew Yes the callipers will bolt straight on providing you get ones that aren't from the 4.8L as they are different again. you may find that the master cylinder can't ...

Yes they do but they are a shit bolt on design. the GU ones bolt on the same as the single piston ones, the EFI GQ ones allow the pads to fall when they get low.

ratio's are the same between boxes in the early models (88 to 92).

The EFI model has a different box ratio box also

here is my 2c worth get yourself some Front GU Twin piston callipers (from any patrol from 98 to 2004 just not the 4.8L engine ones) Get yourself a GU master cylinder and booster (you need both as the GU Master don't bolt to the GQ booster) Get front and rear Slotted rotors This will be the best ...

All GQ rad supports are identical, TD42, TB42, RD28T and RB30 The Radiator from a TD42 works with the TD42 of course, RD28T and the RB30, the only difference is the shrouds as the RD28T and RB30 have offset shrouds so you will need the RB30 shroud, if you use the TD42 one your fan will hit the ...

auto lockers and auto hubs are a pain in the butt, Since the locker is working full time any slight movement in the rear tailshaft will cause both cv's to spind and the nature of the auto hubs is when the CV moves the auto part rides up a cam and locks the hubs in. in an open front it don't happen ...

the shooting you can't avoid its part of the auto locker design, since the right side wheel takes up all the power initaly (thats why auto lockers break alot of right side CV's too). its more a case of learning to drive the car properlly. I learnt not to jump on and off the throttle too quick as ...

the shooting from side to side sounded like what mine used to do with the auto locker, its called torque steer and really its normal with auto lockers cause of how they work as for not unlocking on you i would be checking the hubs if its the hub that is making the thud sound, prob not running back ...

did yo say its an uto lokka??

Ok my 2c here

Set the EFI setup on but remove the throttle body and go with a Gas research Throttle body, it will work just the same for petrol and will work wonders on gas especally when turbo'd

you will need an Impco or aussie B2 converter to work with this setup

Petronix are known to shit themselves especally when high voltage (more than stock) is done. Mate put a 60,000 volt coil on and it blew up outside my house when he tried to leave one day (the petronix blew not the coil) I ran the crane cam fireball XR700 Optical setup, never missed a beat, loved ...