Outer Limits 4x4 Board

RAY185 wrote:Well it's not a very good personal lubricant and it's a terrible pie topper.

Gold!!

Gosh, can't wait to replace one of those after hitting a roo...

'yes, sir that will be $4500 and a 6 month wait until they make a right hand drive one...'

But luckily the Chinese will make a copy in about 2 months...

How is this kit going? Have you had any problems with it and changes? Red Dog My kit is going strong after about 20K, including Lake Eyre and Cape York, Cape Melville etc. Have a minor leak in the heat exchanger ATM due to a fan mount rubbing but that's no big deal. Overall very happy with it. EGTs ...

hi iam putting together a gq wich iam going to compeat i have a f diff i would like to reinforce any one got any pics showing were it is best to reinforce I've seen a kit on eBay (I think) which is pretty self explanatory. I've plated and reinforced mine but more due to repeated cracking rather ...

I've made brackets up for my ute and wagon to fit Recaros and a SAAS seat.

Not terribly easy and you'll need a welder and a bit of patience. But it can be done and anything is better than a standard GQ seat.....

m8 I reckon it'll be the gauge. I've got a VDO gauge and the standard one and the VDO says 2-3bar at idle hot and 5-7bar at high revs. The standard gauge says maybe .5-1 at idle and 2-3 at high revs.

Spend a couple of bux and you'll get peace of mind. I hope, anyway

I've got an AEA 120 amp alternator. Expensive but a whole lot better than the wimpish standard thing....

Yes, I agree with AJ. Just put a second hand turbo on my wagon and it was well over $3K by the time I'd finished. The kit was $1500 but there are lots of additional costs.

But gee it was worth it

Has anyone bought and used the vacuum food storage unit? It's in this weeks cattledog and I've been wanting to try one to cryovac meat etc for longer trips

Sorry, lost a line in the previous post somehow. The VDO gauge shows 5 bar hot and revving, 2 at idle, while the standard gauge shows 1-2 hot and revving and .5 at idle. Get an aftermarket gauge, IMO

Most GQ oil pressure gauges are really inaccurate. I've got a VDO gauge in my wagon as well as the standard gauge and the VDO gauge shows 5 bar at revs when hot, 2 bar when idling. The standard gauge shows maybe .5 bar idling and 2 when revving. Get an after market gauge for peace of mind. My 2c ...

Danwin, have a look here: http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/ftopic171 ... rozenboost

I got the cleaner from Wagga Tractor on ebay. 3" inlet and outlet.

Silverbullet, the VDO gauge I've got in there goes down to 40 degrees. If I leave the fans and pump off or park it for a while with the engine hot, the heat soak gets the gauge up to 70 plus. Within a minute of turning the pump and fans on the temp drops back to 40 and stays there. Mind you, I haven ...

M8, the standard gauge is a joke. I've got a VDO gauge on mine and it shows 7 bar cold, 5 bar hot at revs and 2 bar idling. Meanwhile the standard gauge shows 2bar, no, 1 bar, no, 3 bar, no, 2 bar, no .5 bar. I ignore the standard gauge. Do yourself a favour and get an aftermarket gauge. BTW I've ...

I for one much prefer the GQ dash - you can stick things on the flat bits - the area behind the grab rail is perfect for map books, telephone directories and so on. Sloping dashes are useless.

I feel better now. Might go out and put Armorall on my dash for a while

jaybammm, have a look at this: http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/ftopic171 ... rozenboost

Also agreed if you look after the 3lt it will be fine !!! Wouldn't it depend on whether the previous owner also looked after it? The case with all used cars, can never be positive how it has been treated/maintained True, but it would worry more with a car that clearly has some very, very marginal ...

Craig,I've got an elderly 4.2 in an 89 GQ and recently turbocharged it. ALso fitted a water to air intercooler. It was making 10psi boost until I turned the fuel up by 3/4 of a turn and it now makes 15psi easily. And the EGT is fine. Not sure if this can be done to the later models but I would ...

Yeah Slash, the inlet manifold has a boost gauge fitting, the waste gate fitting and the temp gauge. The hottest I've seen the air get up to (without the pump and fans working) is about 70 degrees. The temp drops right back shortly after I turn the system on. Which is nice

Daz, I've got a reservoir for both the radiator and the i/c. So far, so good in terms of water usage. I've got a temp gauge hooked up in the inlet manifold and the temp might get up to maybe 70 degress, then I turn the pump and fans on and the temp goes right back down - and I've felt the temp of ...

I too have a water to air intercooler. I also have an old MIG that has detachable side panels with louvres. I'm going to see if I can cut holes in the bonnet the same size as the louvred section of the panels and then mount the panels UNDER the bonnet. This will have the advantage of clamping the ...

its all here: http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/sutra1628694.php#1628694

Hi guys I've just finished installing a frozenboost water to air set up and a turbo dynamics top mount turbo on my GQ. I also found it necessary to install a row of gauges. Also included are a few photos and videos of our first Simpson desert crossing, complete with sandstorm Enjoy!! http://s298 ...

yep as soon as I figure out how

Had to share this. Finished my turbo and frozenboost IC install, turned the fuel up 3/4 of a turn and the thing is almost sporty

EGT and intake temps are fine, lots of grunt, no black smoke. All good. Did I mention I'm happy?

Love my TD42

dunno, could it be the air conditioning idle step up? I just upped my fuel delivery after fitting a turbo and IC and found that the step up was holding the idle up. Just my 2c worth

As for brakes, agree that slotted rotors are the go. Also make sure your rear bias valve is working properly. A good fluid flush also makes a big difference. And welcome to the club - great rigs

bogged wrote:

nellyb1 wrote:Dont see a point in getting the geniune ones. Hell you can go thru three set before your equal the the nissan ones.

which sadly you will... they are fairly crap.

Yep, don't get the ebay ones - mine are as bad as the 20 year originals after less than 12 months.....

The Forester has a bad habit of cooking the CV joint rubber boot with the heat from the exhaust. I'd be very careful about removing heat shields - they are there for a reason!!

JAFO74, try an email to the blokes at LRA. They are pretty helpful and I'd guess they know what they are doing. Certainly more than me (DAMHIK... )