Outer Limits 4x4 Board

No, they use am italian VM diesel. Don't touch it.

I welded mild steel to a wheel hub using stainless steel electrodes and an inverter arc welder.
Still together after 3 years and plenty of outback corrugations.

A friend had one on the back of a 3.6 Isuzu LR and broke the overdrive case.
He thinks that maybe one day he will use whats left to make an underdrive.

You will need to cut plenty and probably break axles.

John D

Your low/low is 47:1 i think.

Assumming your cutting a D1, start with the rear of the rear wheel arches.
If its a 4 door the lip that the rear door seal against might need some modification too.

You can use tin snips as it only weak aluminium. On my car I them folded a lip with pliers to stiffen up the panel.

You need to regulary rotate your tyres front to back to reduce scalloping.
If you reverse the direction you can even out some of the uneven wear.

I would say that your alignment is not all that good also. It should be 0-2mm toe out. A wheel balance could help reduce the shaking also.


Cheers

John ...

A friend of mine has run one of these for at least the last five years. you can just see it on the front left.

Had some problems with bushes and bearing flogging out but got it sorted and it is very reliable. You do need to reconnect the pin for any high speed driving.

My 200 Tdi disco is a 65 amp marelli.

I just use turps to clean it then let it air dry for a while.

I just use turps to clean it then let it air dry for a while.

Brands. Borg & Beck or Valeo. I paid $330 for a Tdi disco kit about a year ago.
Should replace the release bearing & spigot bush while your at it.

Gearbox mainshaft / transfercase input gear wear is another thing to look for.
You will get a metallic clunk on taking up drive. Costly on manual gearbox to fix, but not to bad on the autos.

You will probably find your stub axles are damaged where the hub seal seats. The single lip seals let water in easy enough when in good condition, let alone when chewed up by a crappy stub axle.

As said before pull the inner seals out and swap to double lip hub seals.
And either get new stub ...

Stuee,

I have had a set of polyairs on my disco for ten years. I've never had a puncture or any problems.
My car has done lots of vic high country trips as well as the canning, etc.
They are ideal for what you want from them.
Firestone do the coil-rite air bag which is similar but seems a ...

If you want super sidewall strength you will have to forget the common tyres and go for All Steel Radials.

See this link for some info
http://www.beadell.com.au/tyre_information.htm

Some of the types I found were
Toyo M504zp
Goodyear G101.
They are all cheese cutters

To retain the springs with polyairs I just use 2 hose clamps per spring. Only had one break in about 5 years.

I run 255/85r16 (33") Cooper ST's on my disco with 1.41 defender gearing.
Ideal tyre size for highway/touring km's. Cuts the revs and noise down and gearing is similar to stock disco with 29" wheelbarrow tyres.

93 Disco 200 Tdi - approx. 2" lift

Front :
springs - stretched lovell rears ~ 220 lb 18" free length
shocks - monroe gas 10" travel

Rear :
springs - Rangie spares 270 lb with 2" spacer and polyairs (springs retained top and btm)
shocks - Ridepro gas 8" travel with 3" spacer

This is one ...

Draws and slide from my S1 disco

7.7l/100km

I couldn't get near that now with my 200 Tdi disco. Best seems to be about 11l/100km driven gently.

What tyre size, lift, gearbox and extras do you have ??

I have 255x85r16 coooper ST's fitted to 6.5" wide 130 rims on my 3 door disco as my road tyres. They fiited easily.
I have no body lift and about a 2" spring lift. I had to cut the rear of all guards. You will also need to mod the rear mudflap brackets and cut the front 1" of the sills off.
If you ...

Sounds like you really NEED a Tdi engine. Just turn the key and go. 1st time every time.

I believe the clutch pedal spring is designed to provide assistance after pushing the clutch in about half way so it is '2 stage'

'93 Disco 200 Tdi.

ARB diff locks front and rear (8 years old), stock 24 spline axles.
Maxidrive transfer case crawler gears for about 2 years.

7.50 x 16 (32") SAT mud tyres, 255x85r16 (33") cooper ST road tyres

NO breakages ever, no bent splines that I know of either. But I only drive mud ...

A '54 is a series 1 landie and is collectors vintage if it original.
A second windscreen wiper was an accessory back then.

I shifted mine about 4" to the right and made a bracket to come of the left side of the radiator frame top plate. You can then fit a n70 size battery.

I only run 7.50 x 16 tyres (32") and the crawler gears have given me back most of the engine braking lost.
With bigger tyres and a tdi you might not find them not low enough, but I like going sloww down hills. All the stuff I drive is mud or slick clay.
For climbing I now find 3 or 4 low is the go ...

I'd wait and measure it on your donor vehicle. I replaced my front shaft with one from a swap meet. It was too long so i just loped a bit off with the drop saw and rewelded it. 10 minutes work max.

Kev,

Depends on how rough your prepared to be. Mate of mine from LROCV just cut , bent and rewelded his to relieve the stress on the chassis bush.
They have been on the car for about 2 years like this but its not a daily driver.