Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Sorry I forgot to mention. You need to break the cage out so all the rollers fall out then weld a couple of beads about half way down from where you did your welds. Then it should fall out.

But you got it sorted anyway so all is good

gday i am having the same problem with my 97 gq diesel wagon i have changed the master cylinder and all the flexy lines and the peddal still goes to the floor when the car is runnig but is firm when not running i thought it could be a booster problem has anyone had something simmilar happen to them ...

Coxy, Cheers for the link but I was actually refering to the adapter that someone mentioned to go from the standard exhaust manifold to bolt the turbo on.

Cris, As above, is that the same adapter you are refering?

Save the extra hassle and low mount it. You don't even need to buy a manifold then. You can just fit an adaptor plate to the std one if you're running T28 turbo or other than T3 flanges.

Do you have any further details on using the stock manifold with an adapter?

+1

Does anyone know if you ...

If you have a welder or access to one run 2 or 3 beads around the inside of the outer race. Once it cools down it should shrink enough to slide it out. You may even be able to get the slide hammer in behind the beads of weld to give you something to pull against.

Hope that makes sense

What will break next though ?

Nick

Cals cv's and these hubs... almost garunteed to snap the pinion clean in half.. :D

I'll take spare hubs thanks.

Nick
+ 1


if these hubs will outlast a chromo CV and are just as expensive wouldn't it be more cost affective to change out a standard hub ...

just fit my new rear springs, went to re attach the shocks to the lower mounts. drivers side went on ok, but tried to put the passenger side one on and it was hitting the brake caliper. so stood back and had a look and the passenger side mount is welded closer to the outside of the axel housing ...

if it helps i have just rebuilt mine so i have pictures of the TC apart with pics of all the internal parts so you'll be able to see what it should look like. i will put them up when i get home from work.

i don't have a part number but priced one up from nissan a few months ago. was about $800 ex japan. good luck trying to find one from a wrecker. i ended up just using sheet metal.

thanks for that mate.

do you know why the larger gear on that shaft comes with the plate but the small one deosn't in the kit? also that bearing that you see in the pic had a thin shim under it in the housing. in the marks kit there is spacer that has the same ID and OD of that shim. does this go ...

i've got a set of marks 85% reduction gears that i started installing in my GQ transfer case today. as i bought these from secondhand (new but never installed) a while ago there was no instructions and i'm not sure if there is a piece missing or not.

my question is, in the pic below there is a thin ...

are you not worried about the intercooler getting filled with crap sitting down that low?

do you think it would be necessary to weld up the original holes or could i get away with leaving them? the only 2 that would get close to the new holes would be about 15mm between the hole centers, if that makes sence?

will only be used for offroad/comps so thats not an issue. not sure how thick the mounting faces are, but thats a valid point so will have to find out. cheers

i'm looking at purchasing a set of alloy beadlocked rims but the only prob is they're 5 stud. the PCD is the same as the toyo/Nissan and the hole thru the center of the wheel is slightly smaller, which can be machined out easy enough.

we will be able to utilise 1 of the original holes and just ...

thanks for all the advice guys.

i ended up buying a trailer yesterday. its only 2 yrs old and hardly used. it weighs in at 520kg's and rated to carry 2t. it has cable operated disc brakes on the front axle only.

does anyone think i'll need to upgrade the brakes to hydraulic/electric?

you can ge the area Ground, Chromed (or metal sprayed), Then ground back to size, commonly known as GCG. we get it done on pump/motor shafts, spools etc when we can't get a new item. not sure how big the area is you need done but to give an idea an area about 50mm x 25mm is usually about $250 for us.

i'm looking into car trailers to tow my comp truck. just after pro's and con's for rigid versus leaf suspension?

there's quite a few rigids out there for sale, but am worried that it will be too much strain on the trailer chassis or the tow hitch with the amount of weight on it.

anyone have ...

btw, i've tried to get an aftermarket rubber coupling but have had no luck. even tried a genuine one from nissan but they want to sell you a whole new hub & coupling assembly for some ridiculous amount of money.

if anyone knows where to get the rubber bit from i'd like to knoe too. i thought about ...

as nutter said it sounds like the hub/coupling needs to be moved further down the spline of the steering shaft.

not sure where they are located over east but try a place called Transmission Australia. they bought out a company a few years ago called Powergrip who do all types of transmission and conveyor belting.

its 50mm whether it be body, suspension or tyres or a combination of all. insurance companies will insure you but if you have a serious accident and they deem that your vehicle being unroadworthy casued the accident well then you're shit out of luck.

well i picked the gears up today. they are from marks adapters and are definately 85% reduction and are brand new. pretty stoked with the purchase as i got them for nearly half price of new ones and it was a fluke i found them for sale in the paper

if thats the case well i think this guy has his wires crossed. he has told me they came from melbourne and cost about 1500 new and they were 'genuine'. i think they have to be gearmaster as he said they are low range reduction with a ratio of 3.74:1. so to me that equals reduction of 85%.

oh well ...

i've found a set of new reduction gears, apparently genuine nissan items. are they as good as the rockhoppers or gearmasters?

edit: they're for a GQ if that makes any difference

my rig isn't drivable yet and won't be for a while. i'm looking at off loading one of the sets of rims to fund other bits for it so was hoping someone might have experience with both widths of rim and would be able to advise what works better.

i know the tyre websites always advise to use the ...

ok i've got some 37x14.5x15r creepies on 15x8 external beadlock rims. would the tyres work ok on these rims or would they work better on wider rims? i've heard that the wider the rim the harder it is for the tyre to 'bag out'

i've got some 15x10" rims here that i'd like to use as they have a bigger ...

anything happening with this? i'm keen as. will pay kesh

i think AJ might be keen on getting a set of gears lol

would mr bbm be on his way to tuff truck? probably why he hasn't replied