Outer Limits 4x4 Board

not enough info! has this happened suddenly or developed over time? is the oil level correct? is the oil grade correct? is the oil fresh or contaminated? i all of the above have been checked then the next step is to get hold of a master gauge and see what the oil pressure actualy is. it could be a ...

I agree the problem is probably in the starter system. Start with a check of all the connections between the battery and the starter then load test the battery. That should give you more idea of where the fault is. If you are convinced it is the fuel cut solenoid check the connecions in that circuit ...

I did much the same thing to my 1HZ, it cracked the head in three cylinders. if it's blowing combustion gas into the water you will have to take the head off anyway. Then there will be no doubt about what the problem is.

I had much the same problem with my hzj75. I also did the waterpump, thermostat,radiator things. I finaly fixed it with a new (aftermarket) coupling. In your case I would be looking at the temp transmitter, It could be sending out a funny signal. If you have a mechanical style gauge this would not ...

If its drums on the rear make sure the adjustment is right up. Too much shoe travel will make it very difficult to bleed.

Check the cost of freight VERY carefully before you commit to a long distance purchase.

Don't feel bad about it . You learned something about AWD in general and your own vehicle in particular. As someone is reputed to have said " don't be afraid to ask dumb questions, they are easier to handle thah dumb mistakes. This forum is to exchange information so that we can all learn from each ...

interesting observation struth. where else is a raddiator going to dump its heat?

If the air con belt idler is a "bit wobbly" as you put it then the bearing is well and truly finished. With a bearing that worn the idler cannot possibly run true, the uneven wear is evidence of that. Sort out that issue and see what happens then.

Is the clutch pedal moving through its normal travel? If the pedal is going to the floor and the clutch will not release I would suspect a hydraulic problem. Have you tried bleeding, does pumping the pedal make any difference? The sudden grab you describe also makes me think hydraulics. Even a near ...

I'm having the same issues with my hzj75 troopy.I gave up on the fluid clutch and locked it up. It made it a little better, but I still have to be careful when towing my van or travelling fast. Around town or short trips, no problem. Hard work on cool days ( ambient less than 30 ) is usually ok too ...

Reserecting an old thread. An australian made sandwich plate to fit engines useing the ryco z334 filter is now available on ebay. Excellent fit and finish,and a comprehensive unit at a reasonable price. The first one I have ever seen the correct size for the 1HZ ,1HDT series of engines.

for my 1hz I use ac delco aco32 oil filter. Usually quite a bit cheaper than ryco. Covs stock them. I have found straight 30 grade oil reduced my oil consumption. Everyone has a different idea. My scheme may not suit anyone else.

It's good to see a result posted, too many people pose a question and never tell us what the answer was. I must say I too was suprised, it must be one tired engine, it cant possibly run very well.

The manual lists the 3 snap ring sizes with the instruction to select the ring that will allow " minimum axial play " there is no indication as to what constitutes acceptable axial play. If you are unhappy with what you have you may have to go cap in hand to an expert and ask for guidance. LOL Ed

I'll check my factory manual and see if I can help. I wll not be able to post untill tomorrow night.

Running a single uj in place of a birfield joint will give a lot of undesirable vibration and shimmy on turns. Birfield joints were invented to overcome these problems. Why go backwards?

From the symptoms you have listed my money is still on the radiator cap.I know you replaced it but it is the only component in the system that can regulate the pressure.If the head or gasket was the problem you would begetting overheating and water going everywhere. Unless you have very rough water ...

I would suggest you ckeck for faulty or incorrect radiator cap. I had similar issues and that was my problem.

clutch cylinder, brake cylinder, oil gauge line, speedo cable? could ever be more possibilities.

Don't fall for that .I'd give you $200

How do I figure that ? Simple. If the size of the hole into the intake is the same size as the bleed from the compressor outlet i.e. no restrictor, then how can there be any pressure to act on the waste gate actuator.

With the system as pictured, if there is no restrictor in the hose to the intake side of the compressor, how do you get any boost control ? Surely all the air will bleed straight back to the inlet and not develop pressure on the waste gate actuator. In fact I feel all it would do is loose a degree ...

Check the hose and fitting to the inlet side. If there is a restrictor in there it is probably set up as a controlled bleed to increase boost pressure. Get your boost gauge hooked up and find out what's actually happening.

I'd put it on the one day list. If you happen to find a filter assembly dirt cheap stick it in if you like, but as I said, I don't think the secondary is at all necessary. Ed

The fuel filter situation seems a bit vauge to me. My '95 hzj75 troopy has two filters, when I bought it at 30,000km ( all sevices performed by toyota dealers) the fuel was plumbed to the plain paper filter first then to the normal filter with water trap. This seemed completely stupid to me so I ...

If all you did was change the coolant and you don't have gasses blowing into the cooling system, about the only other possibility is an air lock. If the system is basicly standard it should be self bleeding. I would check the thermostat to make sure the jiggle pin hole is clear if it's blocked, the ...

Five weeks and no new posts! What's happening, or did you get washed away?

Are you sure the valve timing is correct? Even with no1 piston at tdc it may be possible to get the camshaft 180deg out. Check the valve phasing preferably with a timing disc but at least do a rough check. If the engine cranks and has compression, fuel and spark it should fire.

Think carefully before you chop up a new radiator. Besides the cost you will be reducing the core area by a significant amount and it will then be marginal or too small to cool effectivly. Look for other ways round the problem. Can you remote mount the radiator even if you have to buy another ...