Outer Limits 4x4 Board

From our friends at low range offroad


http://www.lowrangeoffroad.com/suzuki/s ... apter.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

I had the same problems with my 5L

Would only over heat on the freeway on uphill runs

Pulling a 10ft tinny up out of the hawksbury on the F3 would see the gauge go up to 3/4 in 3rd gear well before the top of the hill on a 22 degree day in the rain


Done the same as you and changed everything ...

From the specs

Cutting severance max (mm) 12

Seems to be the same as the one i have but i have only used it on upto about 6mm and it seems to work fine


Cheers

Post up a link to the item

maybe someone will be able to tell from the pics

If it is the same as the '99 setup then you have to remove the lower glove box and underneith the top one there is 2 screws that hold it down


I think

I used to 2 mains from my rears and 3 leaves from my original front set on 160mm shackles and 2" dropped front hangers and it flexes great.

How much extra lift you get from running the shackle hanger under the chassis also depends on how long shackles you plan on running


Plan on running ...

It's the 3.0d and will have tube front and which

was thinking of using the 2 mains from the standard rear pack and then top it up with leaves from a IFS set

I have read almost every thread on doing rears up front to get info for doing a SAS on my 99 hilux but still need more info


Will the rears from a gen 1 hilux work or am i better off getting a set from a gen 2 or can i use a set if IFS rears

I will be doing a 2" dropped x-member but cant decide on ...

Thanks for the tips guys

Changed the fuel pump today as it was the only thing we hadn't changed so thought stuff it may as well


All seems fine took it out for a good run and had no problems at all


Thanks again

Ok guys need some help here

Mate of mine a a 93 V6 4runner, When it is cold it runs perfect but as soon as it get to operating temp it wont idle, has no power and is blowing heaps of fuel out the exhaust

The change from running good to running carp is instant and is not something that gets worse ...

Sounds like it could be the exhaust

I have a crack in my extractors and under load it sounds just like you described

Mine is a 99 model with 5L 3.0L engine

Did any of you guys have any probs with getting engineers for this set up

remove plates from car and push it down the road and ring bacon and report it stolen, then buy new car witn insurance payout

Drill head off bolt then slide head over the left over stud.

Once pressure is off bolt and head removed you will be able to undo the remaining part of the bolt by hand

I run 31's on my 99 model and with the torsen bars wound all the way up(no down travel), the only scrubbing i have is on hard right lock the inside of the tyre scrubs on the sway bar

Thats 31x10.5x15 MTR's on 15x7 sunny's with IFS offset


That reminds me must adjust the steering stops on the ...

Engine will be a 2L

LN65 is the model cade for the car itself

Just try not to use the gear that has a tooth missing and should be ok

pyro = pyrometer = exhaust gas temperature gauge

8"

7.5" was the front in the IFS models i think

You can change the oil pressure by changing the spring behind the oil relief valve.

Dont know if its advisable to up the oil pressure, would put alot of stress on gaskets and seals and may cause other problems in the motor

Mate had a business do it for him and it cost him $4500 all up


Motor had done 15k since rebuild


I would recomend getting a wreck so you have both cars side by side and can see exactly where everything came from and needs to go

Mate of mine had this done and didnt need engineers

Not a small job- All the wireing needs to be swapped out and the instrument cluster aswell so all the correct warning lights are there and working

Cheers

Second vote for leads


Had the same problem with mine. would idle fine and free rev fine but as soon as you started to load up the motor it would miss and backfire like crazy


Not a good thing to happen at 3am in the middle of a paddock while out spotlighting in rough country with a 2 hour low ...

Sounds like it could be the center bearing on the tail shaft

Might find something on this page to help you out



http://www.bigballsoffroad.com/category276_1.htm

It is acceptable like that

That is exactly the samee as a factory hilux lower shock mount


The bolt does NOT have to be welded to the mount because the bolt goes through both sides of the mount and is secured by the nut on the other side

Cool thanks for that fella's


I have a M/C from a 40 that was running a disc front so that should be ok


Time to look around and see what parts i can find at what price

Cheers again

Get a 60 series swivel hub as they have vented rotors where as earlier hilux ones are solid.

It would probably be worthwhile fitting a late 40 series or any 60 series master cylinder aswell. This should just bolt into the same spot no mods required and should work with your rear drums fine ...

Must be thinking of early 75s then

I thought about going 60s but isnt there alot of stuffing around with the driver side spring because of the diff center


Was more looking for something that will bolt straight in to give me disc brakes, dont wanna stuff around with parts from different models ...

Must be thinking of early 75s then

I thought about going 60s but isnt there alot of stuffing around with the driver side spring because of the diff center


Was more looking for something that will bolt straight in to give me disc brakes, dont wanna stuff around with parts from different models ...

Looking at getting a set of late model 75 series diffs to put under my 40

Is this possible?

Have heard that the 40 and 75 share the same housing and that they are the same track width? Is this true?


Are the spring perches in the same position


Cheers