Outer Limits 4x4 Board

fantastic , ifs is a bit limiting however most utes are like that anyway.. very slow but will go all day every day. frequently see many 550 k plus ones still coming in for service work and thats about all that ever gets done to them. top ute if its what your after

might as well buy a range rover... never thought id say that lol. seriously they fail for various reasons however i work for nissan and i would not be prepared to tempt fate by buying one. everyone claims that they have been fixed by the later stages of the Di versions.. thats why we have had 4 ...

i work at a dealer ill look into fast over the next week and work out where to get my hands on an installer file... leave it with me..

thanks mate , yeah i had a quick look around there it seemed to be forming a stain right under that area with the hoses ill have a better look tonite when i get home.. assuming they are cam in block style like an old holden with pushrods. and the hla or mechanical valve adj

Hey there i just got out of a 94 1hz troop for reasons uncontrolable , anyhow i have baught what was advertised as a 1992 3.5litre v8 injecto auto disco.. seems in relaviely good order with oil seepsage not really leaks on some areas wich i have read s being common using the search feature ...

the gearbox transfer and diff all have gears in them.... =] that what was missing , i cant remember the spec working with oils on tap all day you just fill till it runs out the hole and someone else worries about the rest =]

bump , also does anyone know if a ute cab fits the chassis using the original mount locations

well i have rolled my troopy 1994 hzj75 1hz rah rah rah , anyhow anyone got a body to suit in reasonable condition with all or most glass.... as mines fucked along with my licecne.... white preferably

they do overboost , the screws do fall out of the oil pumps housing to be minced by the gear drive , the aiflow meters are shit, the intercoolers are just as shit as that, the turbos are shit ,the injector pumps are shit, the egr system is shit , the oil squirter design is shit , that bung at the ...

poptop roof = goodbye rusty roof pressing..

there is a way of re adjusting the screw on the afm with a multi meter monitoring it i cant remember what the spec is but im sure if you looked on a vl forum you would find it easily..

If its a TD42 (i) model the one with the electronic needle sensor in the number 1 injector the only things that will cause the engine light to be on in this is the injector being faulty and its also a warning lamp for water in fuel iirc anyone else have anything to contribute to what i have said ...

remove the fuse for it and check the connections on the pins of the fuse are clean , emery paper them and CO cleaner them , i have found this to be a big problem area , after doing that leave the battery disconected for 10 minutes and put it all back together should be good as gold , contact grease ...

i am quite sure the resistor is down near the blower motor on the passanger side footwell lay on ur back and look up under the dash you should see a big long rectangle plug with 4 wires going into it... the thing that plugs into is retained by 2 screws i belive and this is it , when you pull it out ...

well iirc if you get them the wrong way round ie 2 both pairs of 2 are clamped together 1 pair will hit the dipstick if this is the case its the wrong way round at the pump

not much help however the clock and trip meter will be going to zero as you are taking the electronic parts fuse out wich powers these things...

fan speed resistor? , number 4 is full 12 volts as 1 to 3 is resisted to give less voltage and therefore lesser speeds... make scence?

its a neighbour of someone i know that owns it , the 1hz that was factory fitment threw a leg out of bed upon turbocharging so an engine from a mines tray back that had its ass run over by a mine dumptruck was sourced and put in its place , its at quite a good price for 10 grand and a shitload of ...

im going to look at another troopy soon its a 78 series i am pretty sure but its fitted with a 1hdtfte (not intercooled one from the 100) i am pretty sure its from a table top. i know the conversion has been done by the owner but before i go in looking just wanted to ask is this a pretty well strait ...

so i take it that this engine is also a free spinning engine so to speak as there was no valve damage?

i was under the impression this engine was chain driven like "most" of the other petrol toyota engines.. i guess you learn something ever day? petrols have never interested me.

an idea would be for the sender is the top radiator hose , the gq RD28 had a bleeder in the top hose get one from a wreckers tap ur thread into the bleeeder screw bit and cut ur hose and install , cheap and easy...

seems like an alrite price , being a mechanic id never spend on stuff like that id replace my injectors and do my filters pump timing and valves myself and pocket the rest. =] as the dyno report in my eyes only proves they actually touched something.....

for 10 bucks mate i wouldnt go past it , in some toyota diffs u just use a big washer to pack under the spring in it =] it will be come aparant when u split the centre where that piece goes

about between 1/3 and a half

never really specified what kind of engine was in it and what feed for the guage you were looking for..

assuming you have a zd 30 engine ,also on inspection of the turbo shrouds pay attention to black diesel exhaust leaks , manifolds and egr tubes can cause some funny noises and are prone on that engine

any head modifications? any head reliability problems?

shiming of an lsd is not a hard thing to do, i usedto have a gq centre in my shed ill pull it open and inspect it to find an apropriate shimming material for advice its all nuts and bolts and its easy

exactly what i was thinking.. massage of the panels is best left to a panel beater correct