Outer Limits 4x4 Board

The rear driveshaft on mine touched the tank. A little adjustment of the panhard, and a lovetap on the tank with a mash hammer, and it doesn't touch anymore..

Yeah, mine cracked at what I think was about 240,000.. Paid $600ish for a crack tested ready to go replacement (off here of all places).

Put a notch in it:

Mine touch and then squeak..

I'll be getting the grinder out on Saturday.

Passenger side, just behind the clutch fork.

Depends on if the plate is on the side of the gearbox.

As for how much/where.. You could try Powauto in Dandenong (vic) - no idea how much. I paid $500 for mine from ebay, but that came with a winch & bullbar too..

Mine sits at about 1/3 most of the time. I've seen it get to 1/2 way up the gauge once, and that was boot to the floor on a long climb in 36+ deg temps.. The fan normally locks up somewhere between 1/3 and 1/2 and drags it back down to 1/3 pretty quickly. Having said all of that, lots of people ...

Earlier GQ boxes had a plate on the side for the PTO output. Later model & GU boxes don't.

dano80 wrote: Is it actually cheaper to run a V8 than one of these?

It wouldn't suprise me. Expect 20+ L/100km on average. Mines up near 30L/100km at the moment, but it needs a tune badly..

Suspension lift: 4 inch Body lift: None Cut guards: No Tyres: 285/75/16 Maxxis Bighorn Rims: Performance Outlaw Alloy 16x8 Other: Factory flares still fitted, factory mudflaps chained back. http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f241/emjayef/navrunandforumtrip017.jpg http://i48.photobucket.com/albums ...

Benno at 4B Fabrications. He's in Carrum Downs.

Have a chat to Jono - he had a factory locker that went bad.

About 12,000 km's on this set and I'm starting to get a wobble again.

I didn't get much more out of a set of rubber bushes.

Ben at 4B Fabrications did the bars as well as the chop on the green 100.

Bump.. ;) Has anyone got any more information on doing panhard levelling? The rear tailshaft on my GQ (4 and a bit inch lift) is bloody close to both the fuel tank on the drivers side, and the exhaust on the passengers side (I want to try and cram an air tank on the PS too), so I'm hoping I can ...

6 x 55w = 330w 330w @ 13V = 25.4A Factor in your normal headlights on high beam as well: 2 x 60w = 120w 120w @ 13v = 9.2A Just your lights will be drawing 34.6A. From the quick Google I did, it looks like you've got a 45A alternator? How much do you want to spend? Though about 35W HID conversions?

When I registered mine, the Pricktoads dude told me that the engine number on the RWC didn't match what his computer said. I just told him that was how I bought it, and he updated the computer to match the paperwork.

I've got procomps, and can confirm they're a really soft shock. They also seem to have 2/10ths of bugger all rebound damping (compression damping is good though). Gave them a flogging through Maree, Oodnadatta, Mt Dare, Finke, Alice Springs and they held up well. They got hot, but no real fading ...

I'd say two spreads..

I've got a combo using Cibie Super Oscars, and there's a ball of light on the horizon from the spot. I'd much prefer to light up the 500m in front of me better.

If you're running around close to civilisation, go for the dual fuel. Cheaper to buy, cheaper to run. If you're really heading bush (Canning Stock Route etc), go the diesel. My GQ was using just under 30L/100 on both gas and petrol out towards Mt Dare - a diesel would probably have only been using ...

Is your rear tailshaft turned around so it's got the skinny bit over the crossmember? Mine touched until I turned it around. (Edit: Damn, beaten by a millisecond.. :lol: ) Failing that, there's pics on Patrol4x4.com where someone's either shaved or crushed the rear crossmember a bit to allow more ...

narns1mav wrote:thanks for the replys sofar are they bush or hwy kms for the 4.2's

Road k's for my post above. I don't even want to know what my lack of fuel economy is in low range..

I'm running dual fuel, but on petrol only ('90 4.2 carb) I get 20L/100k with a 4 and a bit inch lift, 33" MT's at 110 ish km/h. (and 4.1 diffs)

vanbox wrote: Changing oils is simple. pull lowest bung out, drain fluid, replace bung, fill with new til just starts overflowing.

Make sure you can get the filler plug out BEFORE you pull out the drain plug..

Hobzee wrote: For the record - Troy volunteered to be my "He Bitch" for setting up Cliffhanger 09. Me thinks that's a Warn solenoid very well spent.

Quoted so he can't get out of it..

bogged wrote:.. ZD30 .. what spares should I carry with me?

All of them.

heh yeah well probly wont be anytime soon because of the f#$k around with sizes, and 2 of the clips went Fn flying takin em off so i'll be searchin for those for a while , needa get something back in truck for chrissy drivin They'll be wa-ay over where you don't even think of looking.. :finger ...

but am changing due to some vibration in front end with hubs locked in 2 or 4wd since 4 inch lift and drop boxes? Can't help ya with the uni's, but my LWB has got the same vibration with the hubs locked since the 4" & boxes too. It's only really noticable at 70+ km/h though. Keep us informed if the ...

marty braj wrote:so if i get the aj panhard rod and patch the tank i will be sweet?
has any1 got 1 forsale to pick up 2morro??

Kingswood Country - 4A Teton Crt, Highett.

Call first (during business hours, or 9-1 Saturday) 03 9532 5806

http://stores.ebay.com.au/Kingswood-Country

(and check your PM's)..

I cable tied the rubber boot to the chassis rail.

Hasn't melted yet.