Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Front Disc brakes should be high on your priority list - easy swap from a 60 series or hilux.

The 60 series Power steering goes in reasonably easy - transplant it complete from the steering wheel to the steering arm. You'll need to shorten the driveshaft though. I just had to cut a hole under the battery box in my FJ40 with the 2F, but the exhaust manifold of yours may get in the way. The ...

Later model 40 with full floating rear axles should be the same. Earlier model 40's have park brake on the driveshaft so brake drums are different, and semi-floating rear axles, which may have a different spline count.

The 60 series has a wider rear, so the long side axle is longer, but short side ...

Local guy here - a one-man band so no high overheads. But freight cost would be a killer for you to get it done in NZ....

Look around though. I stripped the head, and had a spare head so he could select the best valves. A good old-fashioned mechanic won't mind doing it that way to save costs. A ...

Don't give up too easy on what you have. The old F series engines are a real work-horse and very reliable & easy to work on. You can do rings & bearings without removing it from the truck. Take the head to a head shop for a valve grind & shave the head. Hone the bore & replace rings & bearings & she ...

If you have a LSD rear & want a lockright in there - just swap the front & rear diffs....

The lockright replaces the spider gears in a standard open diff. It WON'T fit into a LSD.

You'll need to shorten the rear driveshaft & lengthen the front as well, since the 5 spd box is longer. If you have a PTO winch - it'll need a longer driveshaft too.....

Put the airlocker in the front & when you have another $500, put a lockrite in the rear. Great combination!

Not quite right - depends what type of locker. A lockright replaces the spider gears so will only fit into an open diff. If you need to - swap the LSD into the front.

Toyota reckon the minimum acceptable compression is 105 - from what I gather - anything above 120 is OK, with around 5% variation so your numbers look pretty good. I'm getting around 160 with new rings & reconditioned head...

You could spend a lot on ignition thats unnecessary if you just replace ...

Just look at the manifold & you can tell which valves go to which manifold.

I'm pretty sure the sequence is:
E I I E E I I E E I I E

The solenoid is part of the carb. If you unclipped the wire - that's probably the problem. Just clip it back on & your problems will probably be solved.

There's a fuel cut-off solenoid which I think shuts off the idle jet when you turn off the ignition. If it's not working - it won't idle. You should hear it click when you turn the ignition on & off. If you can't hear it - check the wire going onto the top of the carb is live when the ignition is on ...

.008in inlet, .014in exhaust Some good tips here:
http://www.birfield.com/~morgan/tech/valves.html

Oil burning may well be a symptom of valve recession - they don't like unleaded fuel (especially LPG) so budget for a head rebuild with hardened valve seats if you're going to LPG. While the head's off - it might be worth a hone & new rings - it can be done without removing the engine, and doesn't ...

ditto on the valves - if they're a bit tight, you'll get a misleading low compression. LPG is a really simple system - it may need a clean-out of the regulator cos it gets a wax build-up, but other than that, it should be just a matter of making sure there are no vacum leaks.

Before you start spending money, check all your earth leads have good clean contacts both ends - battery to chassis, battery to engine, and engine to chassis. You need to unbolt the cables & clean them up so there's no rust and a good clean metal to metal contact. It's often only good enough to let ...

Have a look at www.rocky-road.com for a lockrite. Import it yaself & get it heaps cheaper...

Isn't it great when you find a fault you didn't know you had? In a good way... I've never felt the second throat kick in so had a look at the linkages - too much slack in the throttle cable so it wasn't turning the linkage far enough to let the the second throat open. Now how do I check it's working ...

You're right - this is a good site, but nothing compared to the info & advice you'll get at: www.ih8mud.com
Go to the 40 series Landcruiser forum, & I'm sure you'll get plenty of good answers to any questions

My FJ40 with 4 spd & 2F, 31in tyres, 4.111 diffs does about 2300rpm at 100kph. Go to 33's & you'll be about 2100rpm which would be pretty comfortable. 35 in tyres will have you cruising at under 2000rpm. A 5 spd would be nice, but bigger tyres gives a decent overdrive with a few other advantages as ...

I can't help you directly, but....

there are some real Hilux gurus on the toyota forum at http://www.offroadexpress.co.nz/

I'm sure you'd get some more good advice if you posted there as well

Don't forget to disengage the PTO when you've finished. It sounds obvious, but easy to forget. Then you'll be testing the shear pin... Or hearing the winch tear itself to pieces as you drive off.... It's also a good idea to carry a spare shear pin (or 2)

The lockright replaces the spider gears with the locking drivers. LSD doesn't have spider gears, therefore cant take a lockright. If you have a beam axle - you can probably use the front diff for the lockright & put it in the back, then put the LSD in the front. It worked on my FJ40, but not sure ...