Outer Limits 4x4 Board

They're not northside, but I've found both FWD Motors in Yeerongpilly to be pretty good for parts. Good prices and have most stuff on the shelf.
I haven't used them myself, but I've also had Knight's House Of Rover over in Bowen Hills recommended as a good source of parts and service.

Personal imports are still ok as long as you are moving over and just bringing your personal vehicle/s with you, the pre '88 cars that you mention used to fall under a rule whereby vehicles that were 15 years or more old could be brought in and legally registered with little more than a safety ...

The unleaded thing is just a restricter in the filler neck, I've seen them on ebay for a $40 before. As a personal import it will be subject to different rules to what the rest of us have to endure. The trick is that it won't have any ADR's (Australian Design Rules) listed on the compliance plate ...

I use Super Cheap degreaser, and then give everything a liberal coating of silicon spray and/or Lanox and then just wipe of the excess with a rag. The silicon and Lanox will prevent corrosion and make everything look shiny and new for you.

I'm chasing a passenger side mirror if any of you guy's wrecking disco's has one. PM me a price, I'm in Brisbane, so we'll have to work out postage too unless there's someone wrecking one locally.

Thanks Rovernaut, I've already got it apart and taken some measurements off the old one and will be knocking up a new one from some nylon or acetal at work tomorrow afternoon. I'm really liking being back in a product development office with a machine shop! :twisted: Can't wait to get past fixing ...

I took it in and gave the guys at work a look this morning and they found another dry joint on the board. All fixed now, and I found tonight when I put it back together that the nylon wheel in the track on the passenger rear window's broken. Oh well, at least they go up and down now.

Thanks guys, I've had mine out tonight and whacked a bit of solder on it (again, failed in the same place as the pic), but still no go for the back windows. I'm taking the board in to give to the electronics guys at work in the morning, so I'll see what they say.

Hi all, I've just picked up a '96 Disco and the rear electric windows don't work. I've had the main switch panel apart in the front, and there's no power to the switches for the rear windows, anyone come across this or got any ideas? It's also got the airbag and abs lights on which I believe is a ...

They tend to accumulate a lot of dust/mud/sand and other crap up around the tracks. That's generally what stops them from working, it just binds everything up. I try to make sure I clean the tracks out fairly regularly and keep some silicon spray on the tracks, seems to have worked so far.

The rate of heat transfer and flow properties afforded by the turbulators that are in the good quality coolers are great........if you're looking to lean on your engine really hard and make big power. The average fleabay 600x300 cooler is still pretty efficient up to around 400hp+ at the flywheel ...

For the majority of applications out there the ebay specials are fine, if you're really leaning on it then it'd pay to invest in something a bit better, but otherwise I wouldn't bother. A mate's SR20 makes just over 200rwkw with a cheapy ebay cooler in it, made about the same with a good quality bar ...

The shaft will only have a lot of play if the bearings are shot, it's the seals that keep the oil in the bearings and out of the housings that wear and cause the problem, althoguh I'm not sure that there's a way to check the condition of the oil seals with the turbo still on the car and in one piece.

I'd be thinking turbo oil seal personally.

Without it, most of the cars around my place would still be in bits!

Locker Group have a really big range of meshes available off the shelf and are the one who supply a lot of the other stockists. They also cut to size, but like most places, will probably charge you for the offcut anyway. Depending on the type of mesh that you need, you may be able to buy it in ...

You could just fab up a new airbox out of some sheet aluminium, pop rivet or screw it together and seal it up from the inside (looks neater) with some sikaflex or silicone. Then you get to keep the K&N and fit the snorkel too.

Mine gets about 12.5ltrs per hundred k's driving it to work and back (running 31" MTR's), doesn't seem to make much difference if it's on the highway or not. Other than the usual Paj problems (dud ecu's and split CV boots) there's not really anything that seems to go wrong that I've seen.

Mine's done this on a couple of occasions, the first time it was the ecu on the way out. It'd start and run fine, and just stop for no good reason sometimes, the one day it stayed stopped. A tow home and a couple of hundred peso's later I had a fresh wrecking yard ecu in it and it was away again ...

Depends what grade of Bisalloy you're using, Bis80 can be welded without having to use special MIG wire or gas and can be easily welded to mild steel if needed. I think it's 400 grade and above that you need to start looking at changing your gas and wire. I'm not sure how you'd go using a stick to ...

You'll need to figure out what's causing the low compresion, could be a number of things, headgasket, valves, rings cracked head. I'd be getting a leak-down test done to check the rings and if that's all good, a co2 test on the coolant to check the headgasket, a co2 test isn't always conclusive, but ...

I've had mine for about 18 minths now and found it can be a bit temporamental if it hasn't been in 4wd for a while. I'm pretty sure that in my case it's just a bit of crap in the switch on the transfer shifter, or dirty contacts, as I've found that if I give the transfer lever a bit of a wiggle ...

For what they're worth, I'd be looking pretty hard at going down the second hand Magna engine route. From what I've seen and heard, as long as you get a single cam engine from a Magna, and swap all of the bolt-on parts over (manifolds, AC, P/steer, alt etc.) they bolt straight up and are about a ...

VDO make them in Kmh only, they have a web site but I can't remember exactly what the address is, google should know though. From memory Repco are VDO dealers although for something like a speedo and tacho they will probably have to order them for you. If you in a mojor city, VDO has distributors in ...

Most of these things aren't as bad as a lot of people try to make out. In fact, in the performance import scene, there are some guys that are using the cheap Chinese KKR turbos with some pretty impressive results. Besides, at this point what have you got to lose by giving it a go?

I'm getting about that in my manual shorty with 31" MTR's.

The reducer is easy, just get an exhaust shop that does truck exhausts to expand piece of 3" pipe out to 3 3/4" for you (I had a few 2" - 3" ones made for my cooler piping), should only cost about $20. As for the hose, have you tried some of the industrial hose suppliers? Most of those guys stock a ...

Just use a couple of rubber or silicone bends and a bit of exhaust pipe, or SS/ally pipe if you want it to look pretty. Then you just paint the pipe with some satin black or crinkle paint and it will almost look like it's meant to be there.

It's normal for water temps coming out of the turbo to be quite high due to the temp that the turbo runs at, exhaust gas straight form the head + big rpms = HOT. It shouldn't be putting too much load on the cooling system though due to the amount of water coming from the turbo being a fairly small ...

This is just a rough guess, but I would thnk that if you could get down towards a T3 VL housing you should be right. There should be something readily available to fit your T04 series core, as the VL guys mix and match combos like this a lot, it's just a matter of finding something that suits your ...