Outer Limits 4x4 Board

The standard GU steel 16x8 rims are +10.

The service manual indicates there was a change (across all spec levels) some time in 1991.
Post 91 has 2 extra connections in the centre connector (of three).
So if you currently have a pre 91, get a higher spec pre 91.
If you currently have a post 91, get a higher spec post 91.

I have never seen one, but I have read (on here somewhere) that it was a Garret T3 - have you had a look at yours?

DC-DC Converter : http://www.amtex.com.au/power_pdf/TT.pdf" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

31" or 32" and their metric equivalents on 15" and 16"rims depending on the model.
What diff ratio do you have?

Now that I look at the Pirahna site, it doesn't look like online sales,.
They are sold via eBay by another company at around the $170 mark.
The Superior ones also look to be Pirahna - same pictures - so go with them, postage should also be less from them to you.

When I bought mine, I liked these better than ARB.

http://www.piranhaoffroad.com.au/index. ... tery-trays" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Supercharge Allrounder
http://www.supercharge.com.au/products_ ... ounder.php" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

I wouldn't do it.
The gauge is a little on the small side.
The insulation is a little on trhe thin side.
It is likely to be solid core, and will be prone to break where your connectors are.
Use the trailer wire mentioned or source some other flexible multicore cable.

Is that the type that uses a CAV 296 filter? If so I would keep it in preference to the standard filter. 1. The glass bowl allows you to see the crap / water. 2. Replacement filters are cheap so you can replace them more often and still be in front. 3. Replacement filters can be bought just about an...

What is the voltage and wattage of the light in your 'tester'?

JBE wrote:The wiring diagram shows that everything goes through the fusible link (alternator, starter, regulator; it's directly off the battery plus).

What's the rating of this fusible link?
Is the starter motor run through it, or just the starter solenoid?

For a 4" lift you are going to need longer / adjustable panhards, so the diff should stay in roughly the same position.
You may need a replacement upper control arm that is bent to give it clearance over the back of the tank.
Check out the items at Superior Engineering.

I could only recommend you take it to Dieseltec in Lilydale.
They will be able to tell you whether you can try the quick cheap fix or whether you need the more complete, more expensive fix, which you may choose anyway.

I'd be guessing that with the isolating switch in the battery negative, you are only isolating the battery. The alternator is still providing power. Articulator (OP) had said that his switch in the battery negative killed everything, so I was hoping that an electric solenoid run from the ignition ci...

To stop a diesel engine, you have to stop the fuel (air ir diesel).

Apparently you currently have a mechanical fuel stop.
It sounds like you need an electric one.

On a TD42, the fuel stop solenoid is integrated in the back of the pump.

Does the charge indicator in the dash cluster come on when you turn the ignition on?
If it does, does it stay on with the engine running?

If the supply wire is pinched or shorted anywhere, then the fuse would blow regardless of whether a globe was installed, plus there is the fact that both globes must be installed for the fuse to blow. If the switch wire was pinched or shorted, the light would just be on, regardless of the door switc...

The fuse for the interior lamps should be 10A. There is power available at each light at all times, and the fact that you have to have both globes installed to blow the fuse seems to indicate an overload condition. The fuse also supplies power for the clock and radio - maybe disconect those to see i...

If the fuel stop is mechanical as macca81 said, the only way I can see you doing it, is to install an electrical solenoid valve in the fuel line to the pump. If you ran the negative from the solenoid valve directly to the battery negative terminal (ie not to the chassis), then you should be able to ...

What is the rating of the fuse and globes?

I see your problem now - the alternator is still in circuit supplying power. You need to break that as well, or at least power to the fuel stop solenoid. Maybe you need the switch between the battery positive and all the other wiring that is connected there, exept for the cable from the alternator, ...

If you are talking about killing everything, does that mean you want a battery disconnect switch?

Post up a pic of what you have got.

On mine the centre core runs up the centre, but you solder it from the top of the threaded part, that the mast screws onto (has a hole through it, that in your case would be full of solder still).

Different makes / models may well be different, but I'd guess the centre conductor will be soldered at the tip of the threaded section where the mast screws on, and the shield is probably folded back and clamped somehow. Hopefully there will be some tell tale signs of cable when you pull it apart so...

Have a look at the temperature sender in the thermostat housing - the one with two wires in the plug.
Alternatively, could be your glow control module.

Count the number of teeth on crown and on pinion.

Sounds like a clutch problem or a tacho problem, maybe a sticky throttle.
Depends what you mean by clutch in...etc.
What is idle speed cold and warm?

Can't see any reason why you are pointing the finger at the turbo.

anzac wrote:Save the extra hassle and low mount it. You don't even need to buy a manifold then. You can just fit an adaptor plate to the std one if you're running T28 turbo or other than T3 flanges.

Do you have any further details on using the stock manifold with an adapter?