Outer Limits 4x4 Board

I have Bilsteins fitted but they seem too stiff. I've got a set of Koni adjustibles on the wreck which I shall be fitting one of these days to see if that improved the ride and especially corrugated road handling...cause it is bloody scary at the moment

LukeV

I am 6'6" and I can't sit in a Rangie. Too low in the roofline, and the ergonomics feel NQR.

I'm 6'6" and my cousin is 6'7" plus some and we both had no problems in the Rangie...not like the missus' Corolla which I have to tilt my head :(

We had to take the spacer blocks out from under the ...

When I had a chev powered rangie, I had a tube from the expansion tank leading to a 1.25ltr coke bottle sitting next to the radiator (below battery height). Not sure how much good it did, but it didn't do any harm and didn't cost anything either.

Sounds like a good idea. At least that way I ...

Digging up an old thread here....

I have just had a look on the CPC site, who recommend a 16 PSI cap for all the Rangie V8's.

The one thing I am confused about is what the difference between a recovery system cap and standard cap is. I imagine I should use a standard cap for the Rangie as there ...

LukeV,
Yes it appears to be the same. But ours still occured even with tyre rotations. Three seperate people told us this was due to bad shocks???


I'm running bilsteins which are less than 2 years old, so not sure if the shocks would be the only reason? Perhaps it is an MT/R trait....

I'm now ...

We have also had problems with the tyres feathering baddly, but I believe this has more to do with bad shocks rather that the tyres

What do you mean by feathering? I wondering if it is anything like what happened to mine and I also witnessed on a mates Hilux. Made the car unbearable to drive ...

I believe you will need to use the 24spline stub axle, hub and bearings. That is what I did anyway
Should cost ~$220 for the stub axles, hubs and axles.

LukeV

The tyres are Goodyear MT/Rs. They are about 2 years old with ~40000k's on em.
It is hard to get a good picture, but you may be able to see what I am talking about from these (sorry there a bit big):

http://members.iinet.net.au/~vethaak/images/s1%20is/IMG_1114.JPG
http://members.iinet.net.au ...

Hi all,

I'm currently running 31' MT/Rs. They had been lasting really well and were a great tyre (other than in mud) but the 2 front tyres are now rooted.
I'm not sure what has happened but one row of the middle lugs has lifted at one edge, creating an un-even tyre surface (the lug has lifted ...

Those pics were from my install a few months back.
It all went pretty well. The pics were of the second rear door I done, which went a lot quicker than the first!! Front's are easy compared to the rears.

I used an air nibbler and a jigsaw to do most of the cutting.

I have a copy of the RS ...

Have a look at mine. Link is in my sig.

LukeV

Gollywog wrote: I'd like to put a new box in, been quoted close to a grand to supply and install, is this right?
Thanks

I've just put mine in for a new box, $720 installed for a changeover unit.

Have you looked in the workshop manual? Should have something in there.

The manuals are hosted on the Spanishtrailrovers site but I can't seem to get there at the moment? Perhaps the site is gone now :(

PM me if you want a copy of the brakes section sent through.

Well, I am having a few things done to it and will see how it goes once the other problems are fixed, but it does seem that they are very harsh over smaller bumps and corrugations compared to my cousins RR of the same year that has cheap arse Pedders in it.
All I know is that it was almost ...

Diggin up an old post...

I've just been advised that my 88 RR handling problems on corrugated roads is mainly due to the stiffness in my Bilsteins, and that my best option will be to sell them and go for Koni adjustables, OME or a few others of the cheaper brands.
I got the shocks from LRA with a ...

Or for cheapness sake you could just upgrade the rear to 24-spline discos and whack in an airlocker to get teh 4 hemispheres

That's what I have done. Bits for the 24spline conversion cost $250, but that was for the whole axle housing disc to disc. Plus I sold (well swapped for Bundy ) my old 10 ...

I have a feeling that they are currently out of stock and are not sure when they will have time to run off another batch.

Luke

Don't suppose those running MegaSquirt could give an update on how it all went, ease of upgrade, gained performance, etc etc....

I know ytt105 has swapped over, anyone else?

Cheers,

Luke

I've got a couple of progress shots of mine, but they are on my camera down at Wilsons Prom.....not much good until I go back down on the weekend

But I posted a few in the following thread:

http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/PHP_Modul ... highlight=

Cheers,

Luke

24spline axles have the flatter flanges on the end, while the 10spline have a higher profile and are more rounded. From top of my head without being near my car, I would guess the 24spline flange has a ~20mm profile while 10spline are closer to ~40mm.

Luke

Scroll down to the bottom of this page - Here.

Cheers,

Luke

You will have one front and one rear wheel providing drive when the centre diff is locked, when unlocked you will just have drive to one of the four wheels. If you want to have drive to both rears or both fronts, you require a cross axle diff lock.

Luke

Edit: Beaten Gotta refresh more often

The axle housing is going to cost ~250, and the diff lock, if I was going to switch to 24spline, would cost ~200, so it still would only cost 1/2 as much. I decided to buy a new locker for the rear as I need the car going again asap, and was going to get a front locker at some stage anyway ...

I've just been talking to a guy at Toorak Tractor about buying the bits to switch to 24spline axles. I've just had some trouble with my existing locker (was re-built from a warranty job at ARB) and so am going to have that one re-built for the front and buy a new 24spline for the rear.

After ...

Can someone Tonka the pics as per the first page?

Cheers,

Luke

The beaut thing about fibreglass is it is so easy to repair
I am pretty sure standard fibreglass will be fine. It is pretty easy to work with, though I usually leave it up to my old man.

Luke

If you can get your hands on a nibbler, it makes the job a fair bit easier

Hey Goutman,

I hopefully will be finishing off my flares this weekend, depending on the weather (need a nice big shed).
If I get around to it, I will post some more pics.

The rear doors are a complete pain in the arse, but once you have done one, the other would be easy.

Cheers,

Luke